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How to trim and shape your beard, according to the experts
Two professional hairdressers share their techniques for maintaining unruly beard hair
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Your support makes all the difference.If you’re keen to maintain a neat and tidy beard without too many trips to the barbers, we’ve got you covered. From tips and advice from the pros on how to trim your beard at home, to the best tools that we’ve tried and tested, we’ve got just the guide for you.
Stephen Buller, co-founder of sustainable salons Buller and Rice, and celebrity hairdresser Pete Burkill, have shared with The Independent their professional advice and product recommendations for preening, sculpting and shaving your facial hair. It’s important to get your trimming skills up to scratch – should you get it wrong, it can be a very obvious mistake that’s hard to hide.
Trimming your beard at home will save you the admin of booking in at the salon, but it could also work out to be more economical in the long run. You can thank us later.
How to trim your beard while growing it out
Firstly, growing out a beard takes patience. Buller’s advice is to allow it to take form, then get to grips with its texture and density. “Once you’ve managed to maintain some growth, you generally want to make your beard more formed by removing any isolated hairs and creeping hairs along the neckline.”
It’s key to take your time when trimming facial hair, as rushing can lead to mistakes. “Wash your beard with your face wash, and a little bit of conditioner never goes amiss, set time aside when you know you can do the job without interruptions and give your beard a good comb into place. Have a good look at your beard and what you would like to do, as planning always makes for a more successful outcome. And most importantly, always start with a longer cutting grade/comb than you think,” he told The Independent.
Then, he suggests working your way up to shorter comb lengths to allow you to see what suits you best, which will avoid a botched beard: “The neckline generally works from the jaw point just below the ear, naturally curving round to Adam’s apple. Depending on the length, this can be done with your beard trimmer or shaving razor,” he says, adding, “the more confident you get with your technique, and understand the shape and length you’re comfortable with, you can start to experiment with fading out the beard around the cheeks and sideburns by lowering the cutting grade on the clippers. This gives a more professional flow to the beard and enhances cheekbones and jawlines.”
Concealing grey hairs can also make a stubbly face look fuller and thicker, Burkill revealed. “I love the Josh Wood colour kit (£14, Lookfantastic.com) as it comes with a barrier cream and stain remover so you won’t be walking around with a stained face for weeks on end.”
How often should you trim your beard?
According to Buller, this is a personal choice, but he recommends trimming your beard once a week to maintain any unruly hair. “You may wish to trim around the lip/moustache area to stop those tickly hairs and keep it out of the way of your flat white or beer, if you like a cleaner sharper edge around the neckline then you may wish to clean that up a couple of times a week to add definition.”
Should you be the proud owner of a full, long beard, he suggests monthly maintenance trims to keep it fresh.
Common mistakes to avoid
It’s not always easy to trim your beard yourself, but our experts have a few tricks up their sleeve to ensure you don’t ruin months of growing out your facial hair.
According to Burkill, the most common mistakes are made when evening up around the sideburns and sharpening the edges under the jawline. “I recommend everyone looks in a mirror when shaving because if we are using points on the face as a marker to get even results, you're setting yourself up for failure, as nobody’s face is that symmetrical, so if you're using the ear as a reference on each side one side will definitely be lower. Look in the mirror and take your time.”
What to look out for when shopping for a beard trimmer
His top tip when buying a trimmer is to ensure it’s not too big. “You need to get into some crafty corners around the lips and jawlines. So opt for a smaller frame of clipper.”
“Secondly look at the clipper guard,” he says, “It needs to sit flat on the blade head and can be slid tightly upwards to change the comb length. A guard that is gappy and has gaps around the blades will definitely cause mishaps when moving the trimmers around the face. One wrong angle and you could go too short.”
Burkill also recommends looking out for the attachments and material quality of a trimmer, advising against simply opting for the cheapest available as they are more likely to cause cuts and nips on the skin. “Investing in something of a higher quality that has attachments and combs is better as you won’t cut the skin and they stay rust-free for longer. You can also get a nice clean shave and sharper edges,” he explains.
The best beard trimming products
Our grooming experts at IndyBest have put a number of trimmers through their paces. In our guide to the best beard trimmers, the Philips oneblade 360 beard trimmer (£49.99, Boots.com) took the top spot thanks to its uncomplicated design that’s easy to get to grips with.
“One cool feature that sets the oneblade apart from competitors in its price range is the tilting ‘360’ blade, which follows the contours of the face, neck and, well, wherever else you’re brave enough to venture with it,” raved our tester.
For Buller, the smoothest beard trimmer he’s tried is the Wahl Bella (£79.91, Amazon.co.uk), which he credits for its high-precision snap-on blades that will last years and cut close with five grades of shading, and a rechargeable, long-lasting batter – it’s “great for carrying around if you’re on holiday or work trips”, he says.
If you’re growing your beard, he recommends using a beard brush to keep things as hygienic and comfortable as possible. “My personal favourite is the Horace beard brush (£15, Horace.com). Made from vegetable fibres, it detangles the beard without damaging it, ridding the face of dead skin and preventing itching.”
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