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The biggest trends from Men’s Fashion Week, from bright colours to sharp suits
From Louis Vuitton to Loewe, these are the looks we loved
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Your support makes all the difference.The Fashion Week Men’s circuit has just come to a close, starting 2024 with a hefty helping of sharp suiting, tonal tailoring and striking fashion statements. Sweeping through both Paris and Milan, the menswear runway shows start off the industry’s calendar year with insight into what to expect in six months.
Included in the long line-up of shows was Louis Vuitton, who took us out to the Wild West, with fringing, cowboy hats and double denim aplenty; Balmain, who sent crystal-emblazoned coats down the runway; and Loewe, who brought bright and bold colours into centre focus.
While the designers seemed divided on aesthetics, with some going all out with statement shades and silhouettes and others sticking to a more subdued style, there were five trends that stood out as the most striking.
“From what we’ve seen of AW24 so far, key trends include combining different textures and materials, colour-blocking and outerwear being at the forefront of each collection,” shared the menswear buying team from luxury retailer Coggles. “The main takeaway from this fashion week season has been the importance of wearability”, with “a shift towards a cleaner, more wearable looks resonating”.
So, how do these trends translate from the runway when it comes to slotting them into our wardrobes? And which five looks are the ones you need to know about? Keep scrolling below to find out, along with some invaluable insight from menswear stylist Sarah-Rose Harrison and the Coggles menswear buying teams.
Bright and bold colours
Following on from fashion’s focus on Barbie pink last year, this season we’re seeing a continuation of the bright and bold theme, with peach fuzz taking centre stage as Pantone’s colour of the year. Stepping into the vibrant style, splashes of standout shades were spotted among a whole host of autumn/winter 24 collections, including Loewe’s loud green leather coat, JW Anderson’s oversized red blazer and Prada’s bright and bold beanies.
One way to incorporate these brighter shades is through suiting, as Kenzo, JW Anderson and Louis Vuitton emphasised, as well as through accessories. “Shirting continues to be a focus, as seen in smart but wearable pops of colour across Dior and Prada’s AW24 offering,” shared the Coggles menswear team. So, no matter if you’re taking on the trend in full force or tiptoeing into it softly, there’s a way it can work for everyone.
Chic coats
Of course outerwear was a key component for the autumn/winter 24 season, especially at the Emporio Armani, Gucci and Zegna shows. Looking at new ways to wrap up warm, with leather, wool and cashmere options, coats took centre stage. Speaking to the strength of men’s coats, celebrity stylist Sarah-Rose Harrison, who has worked with a number of famous faces, including Jack Whitehall, Jordan North and Nathaniel Curtis, shared: “I must confess, I probably own more men’s coats than women’s – the cut is always just far superior.
“Autumn/winter 24 is set to be a big coat season, with bikers, varsity, roomy bombers and worker jackets really establishing themselves alongside the ubiquitous trench,” she explained, before delving into some styling tips. “Styling each coat style is simpler than you may think – just pay attention to the proportions. If your jacket is cut for an oversized finish, balance that with a straighter leg trouser. On the reverse, you can offset more tailored jackets with a wider leg and, for any shape, finish with loafers instead of your go-to trainers for an elevated finish.”
Shop our edit of the best men’s coats
Cowboy collections
Exploring the origins of workwear, Louis Vuitton took us out to the Wild West, sending cowboys down the runway sporting double denim, fringing and studded leather jackets. But, as most runway collections air on the more extreme side of styling, we’re sure to see the trend trickle down with a more watered-down result come autumn. “The main takeaway from this Fashion Week has been the importance of wearability to the wider customer,” shared the menswear buying team at Coggles. “Louis Vuitton under Pharrell is an example, with their take on Western Americana, including statement knitwear, shirting and leg options paired with applique and embroidered outerwear,” they added.
Harrison also had a lot to say regarding the striking show. “We’re all sure to be leaning into the Western aesthetic as redefined by Pharrell for Louis Vuitton. By collaborating with artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations, he instilled an authenticity that paid homage to the traditional artisanal origins and heritage,” said the stylist, touching on key details coming through horse hair braided bag charms and handpainted motifs. “Take cues from the show’s styling and wear your jeans over the top of your cowboy boots so just the toe peeks through,” she said, providing an easy way to step into the style.
Sharp suiting
Suits, shirts and blazers work their way into many a Men’s Fashion Week show, making up the basis of many wardrobes. This season, bright and bold colours, as seen at Kenzo and Louis Vuitton, walked next to more simplistic shades, as seen at Prada, while silhouettes stood out in striking style.
“Tailoring is always a clever place to invest,” shared Harrison. “Prada showcased how the right shirt is just as important as the right blazer and trousers, so, when it comes to styling, start with shirt fit to ensure the collar is sitting flush with your neck,” she added. “Take cues from the runway and pair with a tie in a tonal hue and finish with an interesting detail, whether that’s a belt, glossy square-toe shoes, or, in Prada’s case, a colour-pop beanie.”
Checkmate
While the building blocks of menswear may stay the same each season, with coats, suits and shirts often seen as essential items, it prompts designers to play with both proportions and patterns. Sitting alongside bright and bold colours were striking check styles, as seen on the runways of Kenzo, Junya Watanabe and Fendi, to name but a few.
Coats, suits and knitwear are some of the easiest ways to work the pattern into your wardrobe, while a whole host of styles vary the look to suit each individual. A checkerboard print makes the style rather bold, while a Prince of Wales check may be much easier to wear, or opt for a more simplistic windowpane to gently touch on the trend.
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