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The Ordinary’s new serum claims to address signs of ageing with ‘growth factors’ – but does it work?

The formula’s hero ingredient is set to make a big buzz in the skincare world in 2025

Sabine Wiesel
Tuesday 07 January 2025 09:42 GMT
Our tester is an experienced beauty editor in her 40s with typical signs of skin ageing including pigmentation, fine lines and a loss of firmness
Our tester is an experienced beauty editor in her 40s with typical signs of skin ageing including pigmentation, fine lines and a loss of firmness (The Independent )

Viral skincare brand The Ordinary needs no introduction. It is renowned for taking innovative skincare ingredients and making them accessible to all. The skincare disruptor’s latest launch is no exception: a growth factor face serum that addresses multiple visible signs of ageing at a fraction of its competitors’ prices, but does it deliver? We were one of the lucky ones to test it out before the launch. 

Fast emerging as the next buzz-worthy skincare ingredient, growth factors are proteins that naturally occur in our skin cells. Simply put, they act as messengers to various mechanisms in the skin signalling it to repair and rejuvenate. They do so by stimulating skin cell turnover, as well as collagen and elastin production – the fundamentals of keeping skin smooth and firm. 

With age, these growth factors deplete our skin so it’s less able to repair itself from environmental damage like UV light and pollution, which we know leads to premature signs of ageing. Essentially, by replenishing these growth factors old skin cells start to act like younger skin cells again. 

The science isn’t new, as growth factors were first discovered by scientists in the 1950s who went on to win a Noble Prize for their work, and luxury skincare brands started infusing their formulas with the regenerating ingredient in the 1990s. But what is new, is having access to this advanced science for the first time at a bargain price of £13.50.  Typically, it's only high-end skincare brands with hugely expensive price tags that carry growth factor skincare. There is one exception to this, and that’s The Inkey List’s offering, yet it’s hard to compare when it’s not as highly concentrated. 

So, as you can imagine this is a much-anticipated launch for beauty editors and skincare obsessives alike, and we got our hands on it ahead of the official launch. Read on to hear our honest thoughts.

How we tested

Our beauty expert put this brand new serum from The Ordinary to the test
Our beauty expert put this brand new serum from The Ordinary to the test (Sabine Wiesel)

Our tester is an experienced beauty editor in her 40s with typical signs of skin ageing including pigmentation, fine lines and a loss of firmness. She has been testing it for three weeks (both in her morning and evening skincare routines) each time under the same daily moisturiser.

Why you can trust us

Sabine Wiesel is a beauty and lifestyle journalist with bylines in Evening Standard, Hearst Magazines UK and The Independent. As a woman in her 40s, she has begun specialising in anti-ageing and mature skin skincare and beauty products. Reviewing the best neck creams, day creams, retinol and more to find the best value products that actually make an impact on fine lines and pigmentation.

The Ordinary growth factors 15% serum

The ordinary growth serum review indybest
  • Size: 30ml
  • Key ingredient: Three growth factors (EGF, IGF and TGF)
  • Why we love it
    • Absorbs in seconds
    • Heals skin damage
    • Smooths texture, lines and wrinkles
    • Firms skin with time
    • Great alternative to retinol serum
  • Take note
    • Watery texture makes it easy to use too much

The formula

While you may have tried, seen or heard about EGF (epidermal growth factor) serums, this new formula goes beyond those containing this one type of growth factor. Instead, it’s infused with a high concentration of not just one but three plant-based growth factors (adding IGF and TGF growth factors if you’re into the science).

The brand says this is to offer short, medium and long-term effects including targeting rough skin texture and regenerating the look of ageing skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles and firming the face and neck for a lifted appearance.

The application

Just like many of The Ordinary’s bestselling products, the new GF 15 per cent solution comes in the brand’s signature apothecary-like brown bottle with an easy-to-use pipette. We found it fuss-free as it absorbs in seconds, simply use it after cleansing and before moisturiser in both morning and evening regimes.

It’s recommended to apply a few drops to the face and neck, but for all-over coverage, we did think four or five seemed more appropriate. Don’t be tempted, like we were on occasion, to use any more, as it’s a water-based serum it is easy to overuse but do so and you’ll be restocking faster than you need to.

You do also have to pay attention to what you’re applying with it. The brand warns not to use in the same regimen as exfoliating acids and vitamin C products as these can hinder growth factors effectiveness.

The result

Just like other skin-rejuvenating formulas, you do have to play the long game with growth factors to see results. So, we were pleasantly surprised that after just three weeks of use our tester’s dull dry skin did look more radiant (a hard thing to pull off in the winter months) and already felt much smoother.

These are impressive results in very little time. It must be its exclusive cocktail of growth factors working its magic as promised. So, our tester is going to continue both the AM/PM use, to see how her skin looks and feels with continued use – we’ll keep you posted.

What’s more, this formula makes a great alternative to a retinol serum. There are no side effects to be wary of, so if you’re on the sensitive side or haven’t got on with retinoids in the past do try this as a substitute.

There is only one downside to the formula and that is you get little hydration. So, if you have skin on the dry side, like our tester, that benefits from an extra layer of hyaluronic acid then teaming it with the much-loved hyaluronic acid 2% + B5 with ceramides (£8.80, Theordinary.com) would be the way to go.

Back to top

The verdict: The Ordinary GF 15% solution

A gentle and effective alternative to retinol, we’re predicting growth factors to be one of the biggest skincare trends in 2025. The science may not be new but applying them to skincare that’s both accessible and effective is.

Previously, most of us have been priced out of the advanced science formulations with most growth factor serums costing through the roof but the original affordable and effective ingredient-led skincare brand has done it again: making high-tech skincare available for all.

We’re impressed with its smoothing abilities after just three weeks but can’t wait to see how it fares with firming and lifting over time.

For more skincare must-haves, check out our expert’s top picks for the best Korean skincare products

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