Stay up to date with notifications from The Independent

Notifications can be managed in browser preferences.

Fast fashion is dying African rivers blue, report says

Some waters are also now as alkaline as bleach, according to Water Witness International report

Chiara Giordano
Wednesday 18 August 2021 08:10 BST
Comments
Effluent from Maseru's garment factories - in particular dyes for jeans - flow into the Caledon (Mahokare) River in Lesotho, South Africa
Effluent from Maseru's garment factories - in particular dyes for jeans - flow into the Caledon (Mahokare) River in Lesotho, South Africa (Robin Hammond/Panos)
Leer en Español

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

Global fast fashion brands are helping drive pollution that has dyed African rivers blue or turned their waters as alkaline as bleach, according to a report.

Water Witness International’s (WWI) report featured the polluted rivers in Lesotho in southern Africa and Tanzania to highlight the risks posed as global brands increasingly source garments from contractors in Africa, attracted by cheap labour and tax incentives.

Global brands could force better practices, but so far their presence in Africa has done little to stem rife pollution, water hoarding by contracting factories or even ensure adequate water and sanitation for factory staff, said Nick Hepworth, director of WWI and author of the report.

Mr Hepworth said the “flipside is that (fast fashion) could be a force for change” but brands and investors needed to take the lead.

In Lesotho, researchers found a river visibly polluted with blue dye for denim jeans.

Samples taken from Tanzania’s Msimbazi river in Dar es Salaam meanwhile tested a pH of 12 – the same as bleach – near a textiles factory, the report said, adding local communities use the Msimbazi for washing, irrigation and more.

It identified some 50 international brands that source or have sourced their clothes from African nations, including Inditex’s Zara, ASOS and H&M, but did not tie the pollution to any company’s supply chain.

Textiles factory polluting Tanzania’s Msimbazi river in Dar es Salaam
Textiles factory polluting Tanzania’s Msimbazi river in Dar es Salaam (Water Witness)

Zara did not provide a comment. ASOS and H&M confirmed they source from Africa but pointed to initiatives to ensure sustainability or address water risks.

Dr Katrina Charles, an expert on water security and quality at the University of Oxford, said brands can and do make environmentally sustainable clothing, and consumer pressure was key to encouraging more.

Dr Charles, who has worked with governments in Africa and Asia, said the textiles sector offered opportunities for African nations, including growth and jobs, but these would not pay off if pollution management and adequate working conditions weren’t ensured.

“Making the textile industry a force for good in Africa is a very delicate balance,” she said.

Additional reporting by Reuters

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in