Why women like Gwyneth Paltrow are going Japanese when it comes to whisky

The Japanese amber nectar is being enjoyed by a whole new audience to the traditional whisky crowd. But can Scottish travel and drinks writer Victoria Grier be persuaded? She takes herself on a distillery tour from Osaka to Toyko to soak up the flavours...

Izakaya bars located in Tokyo’s Omoide Yokocho street (Getty)

It is difficult to think of the bright lights of Tokyo and the clinking of ice in a glass of amber liquid without it conjuring up images of Bill Murray looking wistfully into the camera, Japanese whisky in hand, whispering, “For relaxing times, make it Suntory time”.

This year Suntory celebrates its 100th anniversary of whisky-making at the Yamazaki distillery, founded by Japanese legend Shinjiro Torii in 1923, with a dream to create an original whisky that would “suit the delicate Japanese palate”.

But while this might evoke visions of the Japanese salaryman sipping whisky with their boss, a century later Japanese whisky is being enjoyed across the world by a whole new audience.

You’d be hard-pressed to find any trendy bar not offering a selection of Japanese whiskies and Highballs, the famous Japanese drink of whisky and soda. One new London bar, Soho’s Dram, even has a Highball on tap. 

And Japanese whisky is being championed not just by men in suits, but by the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow and Beyoncé, too. Both have specifically called out Japanese whisky as their drink of choice. Were Lost in Translation being made for today’s audience it would be the much cooler Scarlett Johanssen who would be chosen as the poster-child of the drink.

Growing up in Scotland, the whisky that I know and love is either big, bold and rich, or smoky with a medicinal edge. And it’s Irish Celtic cousin? Smooth but not exactly subtle. So, I am intrigued by this new interest in Japanese whisky which is, by contrast, fragrant and floral, and even a touch herbal at times.

To discover what all the fuss is about, I decide to head out on an adventure to discover Japanese whisky at its source. If it’s good enough for Gwyneth, then why shouldn’t the rest of us get in on the secret?

My journey begins where Japanese whisky was first distilled, just over a century ago: the Yamazaki distillery. Located just 30 minutes from Japan’s second city, Osaka, by train, this legendary whisky distillery in Japan has become famous for its “subtle, refined yet complex” flavour.

Yamazaki is set in a bamboo forest at the foot of Mt Tenno, where the three rivers Katsura, Uji and Kizu meet; water being so important for whisky-making. With a newly renovated distillery, they now offer regular tours. The smell of malted barley hangs in the air as I am tutored in how they age their whiskies in Mizunara oak casks (fewer than 200 are made a year) a rare type of wood that is unique to Japan. This wood imparts fragrant flavours akin to sandalwood, oud and nutmeg.

The view of Osaka Tower from the Shinsekai district at dusk (Getty)

Osaka is also home to a brand new Four Seasons Hotel, the perfect place to rest a weary head full of whisky facts and of course the distillery samples. Breathtaking views of the sunset from their incredible Bar Bota on the 37th floor make it the best place in the city to relax.

In Japan’s foodie capital, an evening stroll along the bright neon lights of Dotombori street is a must. Under the shadow of giant crabs and octopus signs, you can enjoy local delicacies like takoyaki (fried octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (a type of hearty cabbage pancake drizzled in a sweet, spicy, smoky sauce).

To further my Japanese whisky education, I head below ground to the small hidden basement bar Craftroom. With just six seats at the counter and headed up by acclaimed bartender Ryu Fujii, the passionate bar team is at your service to find the perfect tipple for your taste. I couldn’t resist the legendary Yamazaki 18 over crystal clear Japanese ice.

Just 30 minutes away by train is the ancient city of Kyoto, the cultural capital of Japan and where I made my way to next. The place to stay here, The Shinmonzen Hotel, is nestled in Gion, Kyoto’s famous Geisha district.

Visitors taking part in a whisky tasting course at the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery (AFP/Getty)

A 10-year labour of love by owner Paddy Mckillen (formerly of The Maybourne Group) is made up of just nine suites, all with balconies overlooking 200-year-old tea houses. Designed by acclaimed architect Tadao Ando, you feel truly pampered and immersed in a bygone world rich in heritage. Their intimate bar also features a curated selection of some of the finest Japanese whiskies and there is really something for everyone; whether you are a seasoned connoisseur or curious newcomer the selection delivers an exceptional tasting experience.

And no visit to Kyoto would be complete without an authentic shabu shabu (Japanese hot pot of thinly sliced wagyu beef and seasonal vegetables derived from the meaning “swish, swish”). Hidden gem Gion Haba run by former Geisha Mariko Haba on street Mameroku-koji is magical.

For a deeper understanding of Japanese whisky, another scenic train journey this time through the southern Japanese Alps to Kobuchizawa, followed by a short (free of charge) shuttle bus to the mountain forest distillery of Hakushu. Set in the lush verdant valley at the foot of Mt Kaikomagatake it has its own water source and within a bird sanctuary.

Grier trying out Japanese cuisine (Supplied)

Unlike any other distillery in Japan, Hakushu produces a floral and delicately smoked single malt. The result is a whisky that embodies Shinrin-yoku, (”forest bathing” to you and me) in a glass. Tours here will take you around the production process and start with a really simple, overview of whisky-making. Their tasting bar showcases a wide range of drams from across Japan – I had the pleasure of tasting six different samples including a delicious 30-year-old Hibiki.

But if it’s the best whisky cocktails you are after, you’ll need to head two hours away to the bustling streets of Tokyo. Here it’s less about straight whisky measures and more about the craft of the perfect long drink.

I checked into the new Edition Hotel, in the luxe-laden Ginza district - sleek with an understated luxury and a beautifully landscaped roof garden, it ensured my Japanese adventure was en point style-wise. Their Punch Room bar is where I discover the Davis & White drink, which brings together whisky, vanilla tea, miso and pineapple. Delicious as it is moreish.

For sunset cocktails and unrivalled views of the Tokyo Tower, I make my way to the woman-owned and woman-run Tokyo Confidential. Named in Asia’s 50 Best Bars list this year, it’s a great place to catch head bartender Waka Murata. A big whisky fan, she tells me that women in Japan traditionally enjoyed whisky, in local izakayas (late-night bars famous for late-night bites) but are now enjoying whisky cocktails in high-end bars, too.

Japanese whisky is being enjoyed across the world by a whole new audience (AFP/Getty)

For a flavour of old-school Tokyo, I hopped on the metro over to Shinjuku. Here I meandered down the narrow, lantern-lit alleyway of Omoide Yokocho and sampled local street food delicacies such as yakitori (bite-sized pieces of chicken grilled over charcoal and served on a skewer). After grabbing a street snack, I made my way to Bar Zoetrope on Nishi-Shinjuku.

Hidden on the second floor of a compact multi-storey building is a dimly lit bar stuffed with over 450 bottles of the finest Japanese whisky. Owner Atsushi Horigami is not only a whisky connoisseur, but also a cinema buff who fills the bar with the soundtracks of his favourite films and the evening’s 80s electric Bladerunner soundtrack. He was the perfect companion for hopping between award-winning whiskies from some of the big blockbuster distillers, as well as obscure indie producers too.

Unique house bottlings of Chichibu were special but my favourite was a Mars Komagatake distillery with hints of honey, almonds and walnuts; a delicious dram.

I return home totally won over. Japanese whisky is no longer lost in translation and I can see why a new global audience is choosing it as their tipple of choice. Of course, being Scottish-born, I will never abandon our local dram, but I figure there is room for a different kind of taste too. As they say in Japan, “Kanpai!”

Victoria was hosted by the House of Suntory