Walking: Following the rocky road: The wilderness of Dartmoor is not just for prisoners and ponies, writes Glenda Riley

THINK of Dartmoor and what springs to mind? Visions of a bleak, barren wilderness, peopled only by convicts and a few hardy ponies? Such a concept of this fascinating area would be way off the mark, for the whole of Dartmoor is a glorious national park, rich in wildlife and littered with remnants of its fertile industrial past.

There are countless walks on Dartmoor. But for historical interest, varied terrain and splendid views, this is a particular favourite of mine, circling Haytor Rocks on the south-eastern corner of the moor.

Begin the walk on the moor side of the Bovey Tracey to Widecombe road just beyond the junction with Green Lane, heading uphill. The solid peaks of Haytor Rocks will come into view and, after crossing a minor road, you will pick up the course of the granite tramway. This was built in 1820 by George Templer, for the transportation of granite from Haytor quarries down to the Stover canal.

From the port at Teignmouth, the granite was then shipped to London to be used in the rebuilding of London Bridge. Many other London buildings, notably the library of the British Museum, were also built from Haytor granite, such was its reputation for strength and durability. Sadly, the tramway had fallen into disuse by 1858.

Follow the tramway as it sweeps around Haytor Down and imagine the bustle and noise of the 19th century - the metal wheels clattering over the granite rails and the straining of horses and harness. Should you elect a quiet spring morning for this walk, the only sound now to be heard will be the warbling of hundreds of skylarks as they rise from the heather into the sky at your approach, or maybe the plaintive cries of circling buzzards overhead.

Continuing along the tramway, you will reach a fork with the track to the left leading to the main Haytor quarry. Take the right fork, noticing how the tramway passes across old mining works and you will then walk through a low, straight cutting. As you emerge, the view which opens up on the right is a feast for the eyes, whatever the time of year, for every season on Dartmoor boasts its own unique colours and shading.

At the point where a track crosses the tramway (marked by huge chunks of granite, some still with their chisel marks) turn left and walk slightly uphill with Haytor Rocks ahead of you. This leads to the 'back door' of the quarry which can be entered over a stile. The quarry was last worked around 1919, when the granite was used for Exeter's war memorial.

Still to be seen are spectral remnants of machinery, as incongruous as satellite debris in space, proclaiming that man was once here. But time and nature have reclaimed this place and filled it with serene pools. Trees, heathers and mosses now cover the jagged walls of granite and here you will find shelter from the winter gales. When you have savoured this oasis of peace, return to the tramway by the same route and turn left.

Shortly, on your right, you will see the branch line to Holwell quarry which is notable for its sheer face and the fact that it is the only quarry in this area where the loads had to be pulled uphill to the main tramway. Not surprisingly, a team of 18 shire-horses was kept for this purpose. Soon after passing the branch line, veer right and head for the rocks on Holwell Tor.

A commanding panorama opens up from this tor, with the twin granite blocks of Dartmoor Prison visible far away to the left. Ahead are the jagged teeth of Greator Rocks with distinctive Hound Tor behind. Between the two are the remains of a medieval village, seemingly abandoned in the 14th century. Was it the dreaded Black Death which wiped out this little community or did the inhospitable Dartmoor winters eventually cause its inhabitants to seek kinder climes?

Retrace your steps now to where you turned right, then head due south across country through the gap between Haytor Rocks on your left and the aptly named Saddle Tor on your right. As you cross the main road continue in a southerly direction and, in the distance, you will see a cluster of rocks which constitute Bagtor, ostensibly the last granite bastion of south-eastern Dartmoor.

Follow the track and go through the gate to Bagtor, taking note of the information board - old mining shafts still remain, so walk with care. As you stand on the rocks, you will look out on a softer, gentler landscape with the Teign estuary to the left and Torbay ahead. The rich farmland of the South Hams is also visible, and forms a striking contrast to the wild and rugged terrain of the high moor.

After going back through the gate turn right, and this track will take you through more open-cast mineworks where tin ore was produced in the middle of the 19th century. Now, the sheep pick their way up and down the banks and hawthorn and rowan trees flourish amongst the old castings like 20th- century phoenix.

Branching off the footpath on to a sheep track, carry on downhill and pick up the bridlepath. This winds between stone walls, then dips steeply down through woodland to the stream at the bottom. Here is a small, wooden bridge - a delightful spot to pause and catch your breath and wash your boots in the stream.

After another short uphill stretch through woodland, turn left on reaching the road and civilisation. Continue on through the hamlet of Smokey Cross with bracken covered Pinchaford Dawn visible on the left, and eventually the by now familiar outline of Haytor Rocks comes into view.

The road soon branches right (with a thoughtfully-placed seat) and winds round to the village of Haytor Vale and the welcoming sign of the Rock Inn. A former coaching house, the present-day inn continues the tradition of comfort, good food and good cheer for the weary traveller - and you may well need a little of all three at this stage in your walk. It is interesting to note that the row of cottages which flank the Rock Inn were once the homes of the Haytor quarry workers.

From the pub, carry on uphill and turn right with the Public Footpath sign which takes you round behind the pub and into a delightful copse of mature beech trees. Almost impossible to imagine now, but during the 19th century and the early part of this century, iron ore was extracted here from an adit which formed part of the Haytor Iron Mine, the ore having been transported along the road to Bovey Tracey by traction engines.

On emerging from the copse, follow the lane and this will bring you back to the starting point of your walk. You will have covered approximately five miles of Dartmoor - a tiny portion of the last great wilderness in the south of England. But maybe 'wilderness' is a misnomer, for man continues to live here as best he may, just as he has always done.

Yet, ultimately, as we have seen, the forces of nature triumph over all. 'Naturam expellas furca, tamen usque recurret' - 'Though you drive out nature with a pitchfork, yet she will always remain.'

(Photograph and map omitted)