Great British Bake Off final review: No big surprises but an emotional end to a winning series

Don’t let Prue Leith’s spoiler detract from what has been a stellar run on Channel 4

Sandi Toksvig, Paul Hollywood, Prue Leith and Noel Fielding oversaw the first final on Channel 4

I originally started this by saying that there would be some corks popping at Channel 4 this week. Its Bake Off has delivered record audiences for the channel (the most watched show since 2011’s Big Fat Gypsy Wedding) and viewers and critics have taken to the line-up of Prue Leith in the Mary Berry posh matriarch role and Sandi Toksvig and Noel “Mighty Boosh” Fielding taking over the roaming presenter stuff from Mel Giedroyc and Sue Perkins. Things had gone without too much of a hitch, bar a minor furore when Fielding got into a fridge.

Then this morning, Prue dropped a clanger – yes, that was a Forgotten Bakes week reference – and revealed the winner on Twitter. Her cock-up might have muted the excitement, but let’s not take away too much from what has been a triumph. In its new home, Bake Off has retained its cosy warmth, but gained a strand of humour (less puns and double-entendre, more irreverence, mostly from Fielding). We’ve seen great chemistry between the new foursome, some seriously eye-catching statement jewellery from Prue and a high standard of bakes – the finale was no exception.

When this was filmed in the summer, the contestants wouldn’t have known that it would air on Halloween, but they all looked suitably spooked to be there, particularly three-time star baker Steven Carter-Bailey. He might have some suspiciously professional-looking bakes on his Instagram account, but he looked nervous as hell. Usually unflappable Sophie Faldo was having a meltdown about bread – her Achilles heel – and history buff Kate Lyon wasn’t backing herself either: “I do want to win but I’m not going to be arrogant enough to think the other two bakers in there aren’t fantastic.”

The challenges were a little underwhelming-sounding compared with some we’ve seen this series (the tri-colour bread sculpture in week three was my highlight) but they had been chosen for their skill level. The signature called for 12 loaves, three sorts, all with varied proving and baking times – exactly the sort of challenge to give Sophie nightmares. The technical involved intricately iced gingerbread biscuits, in two patterns, served with a "powerful" snap.

From the off, the familiar score seemed more urgent than usual and the contestants were visibly feeling the pressure. At one point, Sophie started doing yoga moves in front of the oven.

With only three remaining, we saw more of the presenters moving round the tent, bringing some light relief. It was Fielding’s time to shine. Kate suggested naming her Roman-inspired loaves after soldiers: “Maximus”, “Decimus”, “Aralias” – and a “Stewart” from Fielding before moving on to Steven’s bench to riff on the possibility of a bread explosion apocalypse.

Watching this series, it struck me that they are all having a lot of fun making it; maybe a teeny bit more so than on BBC1. At one point, the judges and presenters launched into a ropey rendition of Meghan Trainor’s “All About That Bass”, the second time we’ve heard that song on this series (remember Flo’s girls night in?). It was a bit cringey but there was something joyful about it.

Sophie and Kate got high praise for their loaves. Paul was in raptures about the structure of Sophie’s orange brioche plaits and for Prue, Kate’s curry-filled offering was “divine”. Steven had an off day in the tent with his under-proved, “gluey” rye bread.

Steven, who was crowed star baker three times, at his work station (Love Productions)

It was onward and upward for our Steve though. He managed to ace the technical, an exercise in speed-piping where breathing was a luxury and arms cramped up. Sometimes baking looks akin to torture, doesn’t it? Kate meanwhile, burnt her biccies and ran out of time, leaving her bottom of the pile. When Steven was declared the winner at the gingham altar, he had the air of a man who had just been let off the rack.

One of my favourite bits of the finale is when we get a little window into contestants’ lives. Kate, we heard, had been juggling all the baking with a full-time job and a masters degree and we saw Sophie speculating with her mum about what would happen if she won. “No more going to Tesco in my pyjamas,” she said. Careful what you wish for, Soph.

The showstopper called for a large entremet; a delicate multilayered cake that was served as a dessert between courses. (I’d have liked a history segment on that, producers). It was described as “the most unforgiving final showstopper in Bake Off history” – they will insist on the superlatives, but from what I could tell, it was about having layers stiff enough so that it wasn't just a moussey mess on on a plate.

Noel giving Kate a helping hand

Sophie made an “Ode to the Honey Bee”, including lavender and lemon flavours, which Paul was alarmed about. Sophie called upon her military background “Concurrent activity is a principle of war,” she said, frantically whipping gloopy mixtures. She was in this battle to win it.

Kate made a white chocolate, yuzu and lychee cake. Anyone else calling 2017 as the year of yuzu? Steven had 14 elements in his yin-yang design and it was all getting a bit much. At one point, he stopped to do some deep breathing and have his brow mopped by Sandi. He ended up going down to the wire and was still glazing his balls (to go on the yin and yang, obviously) at the end. “Our kids have all grown up,” said Noel as tears were shed by all and they stepped away from their counters one last time.

Sophie discussing her bake with Sandi (LOVE PRODUCTIONS ) (LOVE PRODUCTIONS)

The judges loved Sophie’s bee-themed creation and Ol’ Blue Eyes even got on board with the lemon and lavender combo. Prue called Kate’s cake “as shiny as a bathroom tile”, and her unusual flavours got both judges excited. In contrast, Steven’s layers weren’t distinguishable and Paul said he had “missed a trick”. I've never seen anyone look so dejected about cake.

Outside, the former contestants gathered for the garden party. Liam – surely to be the breakout star of this series – was betting on Sophie and his, we found out ahead of schedule, was the smart money. Sandi was in tears making the announcement, even steely Paul admitted to getting emotional. "It's pretty mega." said Sophie, clutching her glass plate.

I think her next trip to Tesco might well be very different.