Travel / A family guide to summer Britain: The West Country

Silken sandy coves, the ozone spray of foaming breakers, precipitous cliffs, wild moorland and rolling downs: the West Country has natural attractions in abundance. But what do you do in the evenings, or when the skies cloud over, or when the kids get tired of building sandcastles?

Our illustrated guide to this summer's events and attractions provides the answer. You could spend a day at the Newton Abbot races, or a night at the Exeter festival opera gala. Go back in time at the Cutty Sark Tall Ships Race in Weymouth Bay; or return to the 20th century at the RNAS International Air Day. Get back to nature watching the birds and wildlife on unspoilt Lundy Island, or take a high-tech tour around Goonhilly, Britain's first satellite tracking station.

If all that sharpens your appetite, there are cider presses and vineyards to quench your thirst; delicious fresh fish at the Cornish ports and cheese from the Somerset dairies. For the end of an exhausting day, we've listed hotels which welcome families, as well as interesting places to stay for those who prefer self-catering.

CORNWALL

DAYS OUT

Bodmin Moor: 100 square miles of moors and heathland. The highest point is Brown Willy, a granite escarpment which you can reach from the car park south-east of Camelford.

Coastal Path: The West Country Coastal Path runs from Minehead to Poole, but it's at its most spectacular around the precipitous cliffs of the Cornish coast.

Cornish Seal Sanctuary (Gweek): The largest seal sanctuary in Europe, it rescues and cares for sick and injured seals. Feeding times are hourly throughout morning and afternoon.

Cotehele House (St Dominick, near Saltash): This early Tudor house set in the stunning countryside of the Tamar valley still has most of its original furnishings intact - there's no electricity, so visit on a bright day]

Falmouth (largest town on the south coast): Pendennis Castle on the main promontory was part of Henry VIII's coastal defences - it has an exhibition of Tudor marine battlements and great views over the mouth of the estuary.

Flambards Triple Theme Park (Helston): This award-winning park has many attractions including a 'Victorian Village', a life-size

version of a street during the Blitz and a succession of themed rides.

Fowey: Charming port on the steeply sloping banks of the Fowey estuary, this is the starting point for some fine walks.

Goonhilly Earth Station: The first British satellite tracking station now has a visitor centre and guided tour.

Land's End and the Lizard Point: The western and southern extremes of mainland Britain. Land's End is heavily commercialised but there are some exhilarating walks and views. On the Lizard Peninsula, Mullion Cove, a tiny granite harbour, is a good place to start the spectacular walk along the cliffs.

Padstow: This classic Cornish fishing village is a good place to buy fudge and pasties.

Penzance: The town grew prosperous on tin and smuggling: now it's a fishing port and seaside resort, good for pubs and shopping.

St Ives: Artists' Mecca (Turner, Whistler and Sickert started the trend) now home to the new Tate Gallery - celebrating the modern art of the St Ives school - and the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Gallery.

St Michael's Mount: The monastery capping the tiny granite island was converted to a spectacular castle and formed part of the defences against the Spanish Armada. You can walk there at low tide, but it is cut off from the mainland at high tide (when a ferry operates).

Tintagel: Dramatic 13th-century castle ruins on a precarious cliff edge, reputed to be the birthplace of King Arthur.

Gardens: Cornwall's mild climate is ideal for ambitious horticulturists. Among the many fine gardens are Lanhydrock; the Lost Gardens of Heligan (Pentewan); Trelissick (near Falmouth); and Glendurgan.

EVENTS

Until 16 September. Minack Theatre Summer Festival: Porthcurno, Penzance. This season there are 17 plays including The Merry Wives of Windsor and Pride and Prejudice (0736 810181).

Until 30 September. Sterts Open Air Theatre Summer Season: Upton Cross, Liskeard. Performances include three Shakespeare plays, children's puppet shows and a Mongolian theatre company (0579 62382).

24 June-9 July. Three Spires Festival: a celebration of the arts in Cornwall, Truro Cathedral (0872 863346).

3 July. Tregorny Annual Sheepdog Trial: Trewarthenick Estate, near Truro.

3 July. Sailing: start of the BOC Transatlantic Challenge, Port Pendennis, Falmouth, noon.

11 July. Stithians Show: Kennal Farm, Stithians.

16 July. Camborne Show.

27 July. RNAS Culdrose Air Day: Helston.

31 July. Cornwall Trust for Nature Conservation Wildlife Fair: Trelissick Garden, nr Truro.

2-12 August. St Endellion Summer Festival: St Endellion Church, Port Isaac: choral, chamber and orchestral concerts including three concert performances of Peter Grimes (0208 880298).

3 August. Land's End RNLI Fund-Raising Air Day: The Custom House, Land's End.

6-13 August. Falmouth Regatta Week.

12 August. Jazz in the garden: Pencarrow House, Washaway, Bodmin. 7.30pm.

14 August. Tregony Heavy Horse Show: Tregony, near Truro.

14-20 August. Bude Carnival Week.

14-20 August. Fowey Royal Regatta/Carnival.

18 August. Newquay Regatta/Harbour Sports.

26-29 August. Cornwall Folk Festival: Wadebridge.

27-29 August. Merrymeet Traction Engine Rally: Pengover, near Liskeard.

27 August-3 September. Bude Jazz Festival: venues throughout the town (0288 356360).

29 August. Newlyn Fish Festival: nr Penzance.

PLACES TO STAY

Headland Hotel, Newquay, Cornwall (0637 872211); Pollurian Hotel, Mullion, near Helston (0326 240421).

Carlyon Bay Hotel, Sea Road, Carlyon, nr St Austell, Cornwall (0726 812304).

Lenteglos Country House Hotel, Camelford, Cornwall (0840 213551).

Wringford Down Hotel, Cawsand, Cornwall, nr Plymouth (0752 822287).

DEVON

DAYS OUT

A la Ronde, near Exmouth: This 16-sided Georgian house has fascinating interior decorations including a shell and feather frieze, and collections from a European Grand Tour.

Berry Head Nature Reserve: The limestone cliffs are home to thousands of nesting sea birds including razorbills, shags and guillemots.

Fisheries Museum, Brixham: Explores the history of fishing and shipbuilding in Brixham.

Buckfast Abbey, Buckfastleigh: Founded in 1018 but abandoned from the 16th century until 1882 when the monks returned to restore the buildings. Don't miss the modern stained-glass east window, the work of Father Charles. Regular concerts are held at the abbey.

Buckland Abbey, Yelverton: A Cistercian monastery bought by Francis Drake in 1581 - the highlight is the great hall, with its ceiling supported by plaster satyrs.

Clovelly: Picture-perfect fishing village where immaculate whitewashed cottages line the incredibly steep street down to the tiny harbour.

Compton Castle: Rare fortified manor house part-dating from 1340. The Great Kitchen still has bread ovens and knife-sharpening marks.

Castle Drogo: Lutyens's granite castle stands at nearly 1,000ft, with superb views over the Teign gorge and Dartmoor.

Dartmoor: The wilderness at the heart of Devon: famous for its ponies, Bronze Age remains, granite tors, windswept uplands rising to 2,000 feet, and pastoral lowlands.

Exeter: The central avenue of the cathedral has the longest unbroken stretch of Gothic vaulting in the world. Outside, the Close and cathedral green are the places at which to sit back and admire the building.

Lundy Island: Home to puffins and seals and the ideal place to escape the modern world. The Landmark Trust manages the island and self-catering accommodation. A ferry runs from Bideford or Ilfracombe on most days: pounds 21 ( pounds 10.50 under 16) return (0237 470422).

Ottery St Mary: The parish church of this small Georgian town echoes Exeter cathedral and is one of the finest. The south aisle has 16th- century fan vaulting and idiosyncratic capitals including one with an elephant and two owls.

Salcombe: Dinghy-sailors' Mecca. The town's waterside walkways are crammed with salty types, and the sandy estuary is a good place for paddling and crab fishing.

Tarka Country: Henry Williamson's otter story is celebrated by the Tarka Trail which covers 180 miles of the Torridge and Taw valleys.

Torquay: Home of a thousand Fawlty Towers- style guest houses; but shopping is good and the pretty harbour popular with yachties.

Gardens: Pecorama Pleasure Gardens (Beer); Bicton Park; Overbecks (Salcombe); RHS Garden Rosemoor (Great Torrington); Knightshayes Court (Bolham).

EVENTS

Until 4 September. Operation Overlord D-Day Exhibition, Plymouth Dome, Plymouth Hoe (also D-Day Remembered Exhibition at the City Museum until 31 August).

26 June-4 September. Devon Guild of Craftsmen Summer Exhibition, Riverside Mill, Bovey Tracey.

30 June-17 July. Exeter Festival: major annual music and arts festival including jazz, theatre, fringe and children's events (0392 421111).

3-8 July. National Youth Arts Festival: Ilfracombe.

3-10 July. Holsworthy Fair Week.

10 July. Historic Vehicle Gathering: Powderham Castle, Kenton, Exeter.

16-23 July. Kingsbridge Fair Week.

23 July. Town Criers' Competition: Kingsbridge.

23 July. Mid-Devon Show: Hartnoll Farm, Tiverton.

24-30 July. Dartford Town Week: various venues throughout the town.

29 July-5 August. Sidmouth International Festival of Folk Arts: various venues (0395 515134).

30 July. National Hunt Horse Racing: the Racecourse, Newton Abbot.

30-31 July. Milford Steam and Vintage Rally: Milford Farm, Lifton, 10am-6pm.

31 July. Exeter Classic Motorcycle Club Annual Dartmoor Run and Show, starts 9am.

3 August. North Devon Show: Webbery Barton, Barnstaple.

5-7 August. Dartmoor Folk Festival: Village Centre, South Zeal, Okehampton (0837 840162).

6-14 August. Paignton Regatta.

7-13 August. Salcombe Town Regatta.

11 August. National Hunt Horse Racing: The Racecourse, Newton Abbot.

11-12 August. Festival of Family Fun: River Dart Country Park, Holne Park, Ashburton.

14-20 August. Dawlish Carnival Week: The Lawn, Dawlish.

15-19 August. Torbay Royal Regatta: Torquay harbour.

25-27 August. Port of Dartmouth Royal Regatta (150th anniversary).

28 August. Buccaneers Children's Festival: Victoria Park, Buckfastleigh.

28-29 August. Steam Up - Coldharbour Mill Working Wool Museum: Uffculme, near Cullompton.

29 August. National Hunt Horse Racing: The Racecourse, Newton Abbot.

PLACES TO STAY

The Bulstone, Higher Bulstone, Branscombe, near Seaton, Devon (029 780446).

Court Barn, Clawton, Holsworthy, Devon

(040 927219).

Huntsham Court, Huntsham, Bampton, near Tiverton, Devon (039 86365).

Palace Hotel, Babbacombe Road, Torquay, Devon (0803 200200).

Saunton Sands, Saunton, near Braunton, Devon (0271 890212).

Thurlestone Hotel, Thurlestone, Kingsbridge, Devon (0548 560382).

Woolacombe Bay Hotel, South Street, Woolacombe, Devon (0271 870388).

Millcombe House, Lundy, Landmark Trust property sleeping up to 12 people - to book see More Information, below.

SOMERSET

DAYS OUT

Cheddar: Cheddar Gorge Cheese is the only cheesemaker left in the town. You can watch the process and buy samples.

Cheddar Gorge: The main attractions of the 450ft gorge, Gough's Cave and Cox's Cave, are at its western end. Heavily developed but still an impressive sight.

Coleridge Cottage (Nether Stowey): Coleridge lived here for three years writing the 'Ancient Mariner' and part of 'Christabel'.

Culbone (near Porlock): The smallest parish church in England (34ft x 12ft) is a good mile's walk from the nearest road, but worth the effort. Coleridge wrote 'Kubla Khan' in a farmhouse nearby.

Dunster Working Watermill: There has been a mill here since the Domesday Book, but the present (recently restored) version dates from the 18th century.

Exmoor: The highest point of the national park, Dunkery Beacon, has superb views, reputedly over 16 counties.

Glastonbury: Famous on account of the mysterious tor rising high above the surrounding countryside. It is steeped in legend including one that tells of King Arthur's burial by Joseph of Arimathea.

Montacute House: A fine H-shaped Elizabethan House with many Renaissance details.

Perry's Cider Mills (nr Ilminster): The presses work between October and Christmas, but you can see the small museum and buy the produce all year.

Priory Farm Chewton Cheese Dairy (Chewton Mendip): One of the country's best established traditional dairy farms, selling its own produce.

Shoe Museum (Street): From Roman sandals to stilettos, the 19th-century Clark's shoe-

factory-turned-museum has them all.

Somerset Cider Brandy Company (Martock): The only licensed apple brandy producer in the West Country.

Taunton: A good county museum and the home of Somerset Cricket Club.

Wells: The massive West front of the cathedral boasts 296 separate sculptures and there's a fine Gothic interior - look out also for the medieval clock. And don't miss the moated Bishop's Palace next door.

West Somerset Railway (Bishop's Lydeard to Minehead): The 20-mile track runs vintage steam and diesel locomotives.

Willow and Wetlands Visitor Centre (Stoke St Gregory): A guide to the natural history of the Somerset Levels, plus basket-making techniques.

Wookey Hole: Stalactites and stalagmites second only to the Cheddar Gorge caves in these caverns carved out by the River Axe.

RNAS Yeovilton (near Ilchester): This Fleet Air Arm museum has displays of aeroplanes which range from Sopwith Camels to a Concorde prototype.

Gardens: Hestercombe Gardens, fire brigade HQ, Taunton; Tintinhull House; Barrington Court (near Ilminster); East Lambrook Manor.

Vineyards at Pilton Manor, Wotton and Wraxall (all near Shepton Mallet).

EVENTS

3 July. Sunday cricket: Somerset v Worcestershire, Taunton, 2pm.

8-15 July. Somerton Summer Arts Festival: music ranging from pop and country & western, to Cajun jazz and operetta (0458 272041).

9 July. Wells City Carnival Fun Day: Cathedral Green, Wells.

9-10 July. Montacute Horse Trials: Montacute Park, 9am-5.30pm.

16-17 July. Clematis Weekend: Rode Bird Gardens.

16 July. International Air Day: RNAS Yeovilton, Ilchester, 9.30am-5.30am.

17 July. Sunday Cricket: Somerset v Nottinghamshire, Taunton, 2pm.

17 July. Classic car day: Cricket St Thomas Wildlife and Leisure Park, Chard, noon-4pm.

29-31 July. Exmoor National Carriage Driving Trials, Dunster Castle, 9am-6pm.

3-4 August. Taunton Flower Show.

6-7 August. Vintage rally: West Somerset Railway, Bishop's Lydeard, Taunton.

7 August. Sunday Cricket: Somerset v Durham, Taunton, 2pm.

9 August. Taunton Agricultural Show: Netherclay Farm, Thurlbear.

13-14 August. Yeovil Festival of Transport.

14 August. Taunton town centre cycle race.

19 August. Dunster Show.

22-29 August. West Fest Folk and Beer Festival: Wiveliscombe (various venues), near Taunton (0984 624326).

26-29 August. Glastonbury Children's Festival: Abbey Park Playground, Glastonbury.

PLACES TO STAY

Batch Farm Hotel, Lympsham, nr Weston-

super-Mare, Somerset (0934 750371).

Wintershead Farm, Simonsbath, Exmoor, Somerset (064 383 222) - self-catering cottages.

Raleigh Manor, Wheddon Cross, nr Dunster, Somerset (0643 841484). No children under 5.

Gurney Manor, Cannington: Landmark Trust property sleeping up to nine people - to book see More Information, below.

DORSET

DAYS OUT

Abbotsbury Swannery: Swans have been reared here since the 14th century; today the site is home to many wild birds.

Brownsea Island (Poole): In 1907 Baden-

Powell held the first scout camp on this sanctuary in Poole harbour, now a nature reserve and home to an open-air theatre (see below).

Bovington Camp Tank Museum (nr Wareham): The tanks (over 250) date back as far as the First World War.

Cerne Abbas (Cerne Giant): The outline of the tumescent timeless giant is carved directly out of the chalk hillside above the village.

Corfe Castle: Built by the Normans, improved by King John, demolished by Cromwell. A classic romantic ruin.

Dinosaur museum (Dorchester): This interactive museum full of the Jurassic monsters is celebrating its 10th anniversary.

Hardy's Cottage (near Dorchester): Built by his great-grandfather, this tiny thatched

cottage was Hardy's birthplace in 1840.

Kingston Lacy House (Wimborne): A 17th- century house with a superb collection of paintings including examples by Rubens and Titian, as well as an entire gilded ceiling from the Contarini Palace in Venice.

Maiden Castle (near Dorchester): one of Britain's finest Iron Age forts extends over 47 acres of complex earthworks.

Priest's House Museum (Wimborne): Local museum with working Victorian kitchen.

Sherborne Castle: The old Norman ruins stand next to a house built by Sir Walter Raleigh in 1594. The grounds were redesigned by Capability Brown nearly 200 years later.

Tolpuddle Museum: The museum celebrates the cause of the 1834 martyrs who marked the beginnings of the trade union movement.

Weymouth: A classic English seaside resort with a good beach and plenty of attractions such as the Sea Life Park.

Gardens: Athelhampton House (near Puddletown); Mapperton (Beaminster); Compton Acres (Canford Cliffs); Minterne Gardens (Minterne Magna).

EVENTS

Until 18 September. D-Day Display: Nothe Fort, Weymouth.

1-3 July. Lyme Regis Jazz Festival: various venues, Lyme Regis (0297 442138).

7 July-27 August. The Great Lego Show: Bournemouth International Festival.

9-10 July. The Dorset Cycling Weekend: various locations, contact (0252 624022).

20 July. Cutty Sark Tall Ships Race: Weymouth Bay, noon.

20 July. Water Carnival: The Quay, Poole.

20 July-5 August. Brownsea Open Air Theatre: Shakespeare's Winter's Tale, Brownsea Island, Poole (0202 707870).

22-24 July. Cerne Abbas Music Festival: St Mary's Church, Cerne Abbas - including

special children's concert (0300 341456).

24 July. Camden Trophy Power-boat Race: Poole Bay.

27 July-6 August. Medieval Mystery Plays: The Mysteries at Canterbury, ruins of Old St Gabriel's Church, Morcombelake, Bridport.

31 July-7 August. Bournemouth Regatta and Carnival Week.

1-29 August. International Firework Festival, Weymouth Bay and Harbour.

6-7 August. Friends of Thomas the Tank Engine Weekend, Station House, Swanage Railway.

6-13 August. Lyme Regis Regatta and Carnival Week.

11-14 August. Flower Festival, Sherborne Abbey.

13-22 August. Christchurch Regatta and Carnival.

17 August. Weymouth Carnival.

21 August. Needles International Power-boat Race: Poole Bay.

31 August-4 September. The Great Dorset Steam Fair: Tarrant Hinton, Blandford

Forum.

PLACES TO STAY

Swallow Highcliff Hotel, Bournemouth, Dorset (0202 557702).

Eastbury Hotel, Long Street, Sherbourne, Dorset (0935 813131).

Fairfield House, Church Road, Pimperne, Blandford Forum, Dorset (0258 456756).

Woodsford Castle, nr Dorchester, Landmark Trust property sleeping up to eight people - to book see More Information, below.

MORE INFORMATION

Tourist Boards: Cornwall 0872 74057. Devon 0392 437581. Somerset 0823 255036. Dorset 0202 221174. Dartmoor National Park Authority 0626 832093. Exmoor National Park, Dulverton 0398 23841. Landmark Trust 0628 825925.

The National Trust rents self-catering cottages throughout the West Country and especially in Cornwall - contact 0225 791199 (membership enquiries 081-464 1111).

Reading: Green Michelin Guide to the West Country pounds 7.45. The Which? Guide to the West Country pounds 9.99. -