Food, Traverse Theatre <!-- none onestar twostar threestar fivestar -->

Lynne Walker
Tuesday 15 August 2006 00:00 BST
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There's no lack of heat in the kitchen of this sharp, funny and wonderfully exuberant new play, Food, devised and presented by theimaginarybody theatre company. Top Irish chef Frank Byrne is hungry for a third Michelin star for his restaurant but, when he achieves it, the awesome challenge of keeping it becomes an obsession.

Driven by dedication, ambition, jealousy and pride in his hard-earned craft, the chef (brilliantly played by Sean Campion) begins to disintegrate "like mince". Reality becomes blurred with phantasmagorical sequences until, reaching boiling point, Byrne would willingly serve a pound of his own flesh to the evasive editor of the little red guide.

Snails in nettle soup is a house speciality (the nettles washed in their own dew, of course), but parmesan foam with raspberry muesli and other "scientifically generated" ideas are definitely off the menu.

There are plenty of playful references to culinary celebrities, the text flavoured with foodie figures of speech ("lobster soup so authentic it tastes of Jacques Cousteau").

With its fast-paced, visually driven narrative, energetically acted by a fine ensemble company, Food slips down easily. Sample and savour it for yourself - but don't go on an empty stomach unless, like me, you're a vegetarian.

To 27 August, except 21 (0131-228 1404)

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