KITCHENALIA

THE WHISK

How surprising. I'd always thought those pale twig whisks, to be found in the kitchens of ecologically-minded cooks, were a relic of our Sixties passion for all things Scandinavian, until I came across the instruction to use "a whisk of osier [willow] twigs" in Eliza Acton's recipe for imperial mayonnaise, written in 1845. Present-day twig whisks, made from birch, can be found quite cheaply in kitchenware shops.

Using a few clean twigs for stirring a mixture is plainly an ancient idea. A simple whisk - most usefully a stainless-steel balloon type - is now the perfect tool for blending a sauce or a batter, as it rapidly disperses any small lumps. And for incorporating air into an ingredient such as cream or egg white, a whisk cannot be bettered.

There's no secret to whisking egg whites successfully, just a few golden rules. Use really fresh eggs at room temperature. Separate them carefully so that no trace of yolk spills into the white. And whisk egg whites in a scrupulously clean bowl of a size to accommodate all of the wor-king end of the whisk so that the total mass of foam is agitated with each movement.

Start whisking gently to break up the transparent albumen, then increase the speed. At first, the bubbles are large and loosely formed. As you continue, the bubbles grow smaller and the foam increases in volume and begins to whiten. In cookery books, this is described as lightly whisked egg white - the mixture forms soft peaks. This is the level of whisking usually required for making a cooked souffle and for light cakes.

As you continue whisking, the foam becomes drier and whiter with even smaller bubbles, while the mixture forms sharp peaks. In recipes, this is described as gently whisked egg whites. This is the degree of firmness required in dishes such as cold souffles, some sorbets and ice-creams.

The most stable form of whisked egg whites is produced with heat - usually by placing the mixing bowl over a pan of simmering water. Sugar is added at the outset and the mixture is whisked vigorously until the foam is smooth, thick and sparklingly white. Known as meringue cuite, it makes a base for frozen parfaits and sorbets, cake frostings, and chilled souffles.

MOCHA ICE-CREAM

Serves 8

4 tablespoons Mocha coffee, ground paper-filter fine

150ml/5fl oz creamy milk

2 egg whites

120g/4oz castor sugar

120g/4oz best quality plain chocolate, broken into pieces

150ml/5fl oz double cream

Measure the coffee and the milk into a small pan and heat slowly until on the point of boiling. Remove from the heat set aside to infuse.

In a mixing bowl set over a pan of simmering water, whisk (using a hand- held electric beater) the egg whites with the sugar for about five minutes until the mixture is cooked to a fairly firm foam. Remove pan and bowl from the heat. Replace the bowl with a basin containing the chocolate. Leave until melted.

Continue to whisk the egg whites for three minutes until slightly cooled. Pour the coffee mixture through a fine strainer onto the melted chocolate and stir until mixed. Set aside until cool.

Using the same whisk or beater, whisk the cream until stiff but still globby. Gently fold the mocha mixture into the cream with the whisk or beater, then fold into the meringue mixture until combined. Pour into a lidded, plastic container. Freeze for four to six hours, or until firm.