Food & Drink: Healthy Eating Part 2: Light starching that won't give you creases

In the second of our three-part series, Michael Bateman explores Anna Thomas's recipes for delicious, energy-packed pastas and pulses, polenta and potatoes, couscous and crepes

Eat to enjoy yourself, and eat for your wellbeing, is the message from Anna Thomas. We continue our series on eating to improve your lifestyle for 1997. These recipes taste good and, also, they do you good.

Anna Thomas is one of the most influential food writers in the United States, whose first book The Vegetarian Epicure, published nearly 20 years ago, has sold over two million copies. After a life pursuing a career as a film director, she returns to her theme of eating within a vegetarian framework. The World Health Organisation's view is that this is about the healthiest eating style you can adopt to avoid heart disease and diet- related illnesses; it says eat plenty of veg and fruit, hold back on fats, cream, butter and cheese.

Above all, it suggests, make your chief source of energy not protein (such as meat) but something starchy. So this week, we look at recipes for bread, pasta, rice, potatoes, couscous, polenta, buckwheat crepes. Anna Thomas transforms foods many of us used to think of as stodge, associated with childhood memories of school food.

Though not herself a vegetarian (she enjoys fish and white meat), her preference has always been for fresh vegetables and fruit. But she doesn't urge anyone to deprive themselves of the meat, fowl and fish which they enjoy. Or cheese, which she loves; enjoy, but in moderation.

ROASTED POTATOES AND FENNEL

Serves 6-8

1.2kg/2lb 8oz red-skinned potatoes

2 large fennel bulbs, white only

2 large onions

2 large, ripe tomatoes

8-10 small carrots

1 large red or green pepper

12 head garlic

175ml/6fl oz any home-made tomato sauce

salt and pepper to taste

2-3 tablespoons olive oil

chopped fresh basil (optional)

Scrub, clean, and trim all the vegetables. The potatoes should be cut in approximately 2.5cm (1in) cubes, the fennel, onions, and tomatoes the same or slightly larger. Slender carrots can be cut to the size of your little finger, and the pepper sliced into strips or cut in squares. Slice the garlic or chop coarsely.

Mix everything together in a big bowl with the tomato sauce, some salt and pepper, and the olive oil. Add chopped fresh basil if you like. Spread the vegetables out on two baking sheets and roast them in a 220C/425F/Gas 7 oven, checking every seven or eight minutes. Stir and turn the vegetables when brown or charred spots appear on top. When all the vegetables are tender - probably about an hour - serve at once.

WHITE BEAN SALAD WITH SAUTEED RADICCHIO

In this salad, the radicchio is quickly sauteed first, then combined with the beans, and some raw ingredients for a contrast in texture. It's an excellent antipasto salad, or a light main course when served with some good bread. Also sensational on bruschetta.

Serves 6 as an appetiser, or 4 as a main course

700g/1lb 8oz cooked cannellini beans, or equivalent in canned beans

1 small head radicchio

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large clove garlic, minced with dash of salt

4 tablespoons aged red-wine vinegar

1 stalk celery, chopped

14 medium red onion, sliced very thinly

25g/1oz slivered, cured black olives

25g/1oz coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley

freshly ground black pepper

If using canned beans, drain them and rinse them well, and be very careful when mixing because they tend to be mushy. Beans you have cooked yourself need only be well drained.

Wash the radicchio, cut it in half, then slice into 0.5cm (14in) ribbons. Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a nonstick pan and throw in half the minced garlic. Stir for a minute, then add the shredded radicchio and a dash of salt. Toss the radicchio in the oil and garlic over a high heat for four minutes. Remove from the heat and sprinkle on a tablespoon of the wine vinegar. Toss again, then leave to cool slightly.

In a large, shallow bowl, combine the beans with the radicchio, celery, red onion, olives and parsley, and the remaining minced garlic. Drizzle on the rest of the olive oil and vinegar, grind on some pepper, and mix together gently but thoroughly. The salad improves if left to marinate for an hour or two. Serve cool or at room temperature.

STEWED CHICKPEAS AND POTATOES IN INDIAN SPICES

450g/1lb dried chickpeas

pinch of bicarbonate of soda

112 teaspoons salt, more to taste

3 large onions

8-10 cloves garlic

2 tablespoons peanut oil, or vegetable oil

12 tablespoon butter

900g/2lb potatoes

2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds

2 teaspoons ground coriander

14 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons turmeric

2 teaspoons whole mustard seeds

2 small, hot green chillies, trimmed and finely chopped

2.5cm/1in piece of fresh ginger root, peeled and chopped (about 2 tablespoons)

900g/2lb ripe tomatoes

8-9 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves

3-4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon Major Grey's or other mango chutney

Soak the dried chickpeas overnight in cold water with a little bicarbonate of soda and drain. (The soaking process can be omitted, but in that case the chickpeas will take longer to cook.)

In either case, simmer them in a large pot with enough fresh water to cover by at least 2.5cm (1in); if you have hard water, add a pinch more soda to the water. When the chickpeas are starting to be tender, add about a teaspoon of salt to the water. The cooking time will vary with the age of the beans - it might take an hour or two, or maybe longer. They're ready when tender.

Peel the onions, halve them lengthwise, and cut them in thick slices. Peel and coarsely chop the garlic. Heat the peanut oil and butter in a large, non-stick saute pan and saute the onion in it, stirring frequently, until it begins to colour. Add the chopped garlic and a dash of salt and keep stirring over a medium heat until both onions and garlic are golden brown.

Meanwhile, peel the potatoes and cut them in 2.5cm (1in) chunks. Toast the cumin seeds lightly in a little pan, stirring and watching until they release their fragrance, then grind them briefly in a stone mortar or a spice grinder.

When the onions and garlic are ready, add the cumin, coriander, cayenne, turmeric, and mustard seeds. Stir over a medium heat for about three minutes. Add the potatoes, the cooked chickpeas, and enough of the cooking liquid from the chickpeas to just barely cover everything in the pan. Bring the liquid to a simmer.

Add half a teaspoon of salt, the chopped chillies, and the chopped ginger, stir everything, cover the pan, and leave it to simmer for about 15 minutes.

Scald and peel the tomatoes, trim out their cores, and cut them into wedges or big chunks. Uncover the pan, add the tomatoes, coriander leaves, fresh lemon juice, and chutney. Simmer the mixture, uncovered, for about another 10 to 15 minutes. The liquid will be thickened, and all the vegetables will be tender yet still maintaining their separate identities. Taste, and correct the seasoning with a bit more salt or lemon juice if needed.

BUCKWHEAT CRPES

These buckwheat crepes have a distinctive, nutty flavour and a tenderness that makes them delightful to eat, but a bit tricky to handle. If you let them brown before trying to flip them, and work gently when filling them, you'll be fine.

Note: This batter needs to rest at least two hours before you make the crepes, so make it in the morning, or the night before - it only takes a few minutes.

Makes about 24 crepes

325ml/11fl oz low-fat milk

2 eggs

2 egg whites

120ml/4fl oz beer

325ml/11fl oz water

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, more for the pan

2 tablespoons sugar (slightly more for dessert crepes)

12 teaspoon salt

250g/9oz buckwheat flour

Combine milk, eggs, egg whites, beer, water and oil in a blender and process for a few seconds. Add the sugar, salt, and buckwheat flour, and process again until smooth, working in two batches if you need to. Stop and scrape down the sides, and process again.

Put the batter in a bowl, cover it, and refrigerate for at least two hours, or as long as overnight. Stir the batter up and check its consistency. It should be like double cream; you can thin it with a spoonful or two of water if needed.

To cook the crepes, heat a 23cm (9in) nonstick pan (a well-seasoned crepe pan can also be used). Brush the pan with oil or rub it with a paper towel dipped in oil. Pour a ladleful of batter (equivalent to three to four tablespoons) into the hot pan and immediately tilt the pan around to spread the batter evenly over the bottom. Cook the crepe on a medium flame for about 45 seconds, or until the edges are just beginning to brown. Loosen the edges gently with a thin spatula or a butter knife, then turn the crepe over and cook on the other side for 20 to 30 seconds.

If a crepe sticks, oil the pan a bit more next time, and let the crepe cook slightly longer before turning. Stack the crepes on a plate and keep them covered with a slightly damp kitchen towel.

Variation: For sweeter crepes, increase the sugar to three tablespoons. These are perfect for dessert, filled with jam or fruit compote.

BULGUR PILAF WITH FENNEL, SULTANAS AND PINE NUTS

Serves 10-12

2 medium onions

2 small fennel bulbs

2-3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

450g/1lb bulgur

900ml/112 pints hot vegetable stock

75g/3oz sultanas

75g/3oz pine nuts

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, or 2 tablespoons chopped fresh fennel greens (optional)

Peel and chop the onions. Trim the fennel bulbs, wash them carefully, and cut them into 1cm (12in) dice. Saute the onions, fennel, and minced garlic in the olive oil, stirring often, until the vegetables take on a nice golden-brown colour. Add some salt and pepper - more or less, depending on the saltiness of the stock you will use.

Add the dry bulgur and stir it in the hot pan with the vegetables for a few minutes. Then add the hot vegetable stock and the sultanas. Pour the whole mixture into a large casserole or gratin dish, cover tightly, and bake it in a 180C/350F/Gas 4 oven for 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, toast the pine nuts: heat them in a small pan, stirring constantly, until they begin to brown. Do not turn away to answer the phone! This only takes a few moments, and they'll burn in an instant if you take your eyes off them. When they are toast-coloured and give off a divine fragrance, just set them aside in a bowl.

After 40 minutes, when the pilaf is ready, remove the cover and check to make sure all the liquid has been absorbed. If not, leave it in the oven for a few more minutes. Then fluff the pilaf with a fork and stir in the toasted pine nuts. Sprinkle with the chopped fresh parsley or chopped fresh fennel greens if you like and serve up hot.

SIMPLE POLENTA

I use a coarse-ground polenta from a local Italian deli or a health food store. It needs longer cooking than the finely ground sort, but I prefer the texture. I've also had excellent results with cornmeal from the supermarket.

The simplest polenta can be made with water and salt, or a stock can be used for the liquid. Some people like to use a home-made chicken stock. I use a light vegetable stock, and I've been known to use a vegetable stock powder that I keep in the freezer for those times when you just need it. The thing to remember is not to use a stock with a very assertive flavour, as it could take over the delicate taste of the polenta.

Serves 6-8

2 litres/312 pints water or vegetable stock

350g/12oz coarse-ground yellow cornmeal (polenta)

salt to taste

butter or olive oil

75g/3oz grated Parmesan cheese

To garnish:

175-225g/6-8oz goat's cheese, broken into pieces

chunky tomato sauce

In a deep saucepan, combine the cold water or stock with the polenta and additional salt if needed. Use about two teaspoons of salt if you are using water, otherwise adjust to the saltiness of the stock. You can use slightly less liquid if you want a very firm polenta, which will set up nicely in a pan and can then later be sliced and grilled.

Whisk the polenta into the liquid to break up any lumps. Gradually bring the liquid to a boil, stirring often with a long-handled wooden spoon, then lower the heat to simmer. Continue stirring the polenta over a low heat for about 40 minutes, or for a bit less time if you are using the fine-ground cornmeal. Constant stirring is best, but frequent stirring will do if reality so dictates. The polenta will thicken quickly, and also has a tendency to splatter, which is why I recommend a deep pot and long-handled spoon.

Before serving, stir in about a tablespoon of butter and about 75g (3oz) of grated Parmesan cheese. Ladle the steaming polenta into shallow bowls, and serve at once, with additional Parmesan cheese, or with a few chunks of goat's cheese and a tomato sauce.

Variations: A superb way to enjoy polenta, if you are ever lucky enough to get your hands on a fresh truffle or two, is this - put a rounded tablespoon of mascarpone in the plate. Ladle a serving of polenta over it, then scatter shavings of fresh truffle over the polenta. Polenta also goes beautifully with sau-teed porcini, or any other mushroom.

COUSCOUS WITH MOROCCAN SPICES

Serves 8-10

For the sauce:

1 tablespoon olive oil

12 large onion, chopped

6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 teaspoon cumin seeds, lightly toasted and ground

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

12 teaspoon ground cinnamon

12 teaspoon ground coriander

14 teaspoon cayenne or red pepper flakes

12 teaspoon sweet paprika

500ml/16fl oz light vegetable stock

3 small red tomatoes, peeled and pureed

75g/3oz dried currants

1-2 tablespoons fresh lime or lemon juice

For the couscous:

500ml/16fl oz vegetable stock

350ml/12fl oz water

1 tablespoon butter

12 teaspoon salt

400g/14oz couscous

Heat the olive oil in a nonstick pan and cook the chopped onion and garlic in it until the onion is soft and translucent. Stir in the ground, toasted cumin, turmeric, cinnamon, coriander, cay-enne and paprika. Continue stirring over a medium heat for two to three minutes, then add the vegetable stock, pureed tomatoes and currants. Sim-mer the sauce for 10 minutes.

Remove the sauce from the heat and stir in freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice to your taste. If you are not planning to use the sauce immediately and want to reheat it before serving, wait to add the citrus juice at the last minute.

For the couscous: heat the stock, water, butter and salt together in a medium frying pan until the liquid boils. Reduce to a simmer, add the couscous, cover the pan tightly, and leave it on the lowest heat for five minutes. Then, remove the pan from the heat and leave it covered for another couple of minutes before fluffing the couscous with a fork.

Serve the couscous with roasted vegetables and pass the spicy sauce separately to spoon over it.

BROWN AND WILD RICE PILAF

The chewy texture and sweet, almost nutty, flavour of this pilaf make it a very satisfying dish. It is an ideal companion to autumn or winter vegetables, either roasted or stewed.

Serves 8

112 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

pinch of salt

175g/6oz wild rice

225g/8oz long-grain brown rice

750ml/114 pints vegetable stock

550ml/18fl oz water

Warm the olive oil in a medium-sized saute pan and cook the onion in it with a pinch of salt, stirring often, until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the wild and the brown rice and stir them with the onions for a couple of minutes, then add the stock and water.

Bring the liquid to a simmer, lower the heat, and cover the pan tightly. Leave the rice to simmer for 55 minutes, then turn off the heat and let it stand, without lifting the lid, for another five minutes. Fluff the rice up with a fork before serving.

BAKED RIGATONI WITH GRILLED VEGETABLES

Serves 8-10

2 large, firm aubergines (900g/2 lb)

2 large red, green or yellow peppers

olive oil for grilling

2 large red onions

2-3 cloves garlic

2 tablespoons olive oil

900g/2lb tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1-2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano

salt and pepper to taste

120ml/4fl oz dry red wine

450g/1lb rigatoni

225g/8oz grated mozzarella cheese

Slice the aubergines lengthwise, 1cm (12in) thick. Salt the slices lightly on both sides and leave to drain for at least 30 minutes. Pat them dry. Cut the peppers in quarters lengthwise and remove the seeds and stems. Brush the vegetables with a small amount of olive oil.

Grill the aubergines over charcoal or under a grill until they are tender. Grill the peppers, skin side down, until they are charred and blistered. Put the peppers in a paper bag for a few minutes to sweat, then slip off their skins. Cut the vegetables in wide strips and set aside.

Peel, halve, and slice the onions. Peel and chop the garlic. Saute the onions and garlic in two tablespoons of olive oil until they begin to colour. Add three-quarters of the chopped tomatoes, the chopped herbs, some salt and pepper, and the wine. Simmer the sauce until it has a nice, semi-thick consistency - about 30 minutes.

Cook the rigatoni in a large pot of boiling salted water until it is just barely al dente. Drain the pasta and mix it gently but thoroughly with the tomato sauce and the grilled vegetables. Spoon the mixture evenly into a large, oiled gratin dish. Scatter the remaining chopped tomatoes over the top of this, then sprinkle on the grated mozzarella.

Bake the gratin at 180C/350F/Gas 4 for about 30 to 40 minutes, until it is very hot right through and beginning to turn colour on top.

You can put it under the grill for about a minute at the end if you like the cheese to bubble and brown more. Serve at once, with a good Italian red wine.

FOCACCIA

A fresh, warm focaccia is a wonderful addition to almost any meal, and it's not much more trouble to make than stirring up a batch of cornbread. You need to start preparing it about two and a half hours before you want to eat, but there's only about 20 minutes of actual work involved.

It's a great thing to serve with an aperitif wine and some olives or chopped tomatoes. This is a very basic recipe which can be varied endlessly with herbs and flavourings. Remember, don't make more than you need, because it's only good when it's fresh - but people really love it, so you'll need more than you think.

Makes 1 loaf (recipe may be doubled)

7g/14oz dried yeast

300ml/10fl oz warm water

pinch of sugar

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons olive oil

350-400g/12-14oz flour (white, wholemeal, or a combination)

coarse sea salt to taste

In a large mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water with the pinch of sugar, and leave it for about 15 minutes, until it starts to foam.

Add the salt and half the olive oil, then stir in the flour, a scoop at a time.

When the dough is too stiff to stir with a spoon, turn it out on a well- floured board, sprinkle more flour on top of it, and begin kneading. Knead it gently, working in as much more of the flour as you must to keep it from sticking. When the dough is smooth and elastic, form it into a ball and put it in an oiled bowl, turning it once to coat it. Cover the bowl with a tea towel or with plastic wrap, and leave the dough in a warm place to rise for about 45 minutes, or until almost double in size.

Punch the dough down, lift it out of the bowl on to an oiled baking sheet, and pat or roll it out into a large, thick oval, about 30 x 40cm (12 x 16in). Cover it with a tea towel and leave it to rise again for at least 30 minutes, or until almost doubled in size.

Brush the focaccia delicately with the remaining olive oil, and sprinkle it with some coarse sea salt. If you like, you can cut shallow, diagonal slashes in the top with a sharp knife, in a crisscross pattern. Or just dimple the top of the focaccia with your fingertips, but don't be too aggressive - you don't want to punch it down again.

Bake the focaccia in a preheated 230C/450F/Gas 8 oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until it is golden on top and sounds hollow when the bottom crust is tapped. Cut it in squares and serve the bread up hot or warm.