Buried Treasure

John Simpson on Richard Burton's 'Personal Narrative of a pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah'

Friday 07 November 2003 01:00 GMT
Comments

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

He was an appalling man, and the purpose of his journey was disgraceful: to penetrate the two holiest cities in the Islamic world. But Sir Richard Burton's Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah (Dover paperbacks), published in 1856, is, for me, the best and most riveting book of travel and adventure I have ever read. Burton's style is superbly vigorous and funny, whether he is fighting off a group of mutineers and pirates, dosing the locals with his own patent medicines, or getting up the nose of some colonial Englishman by brushing against him disguised in the dirty robes of a street Arab and making him curse. (Burton: "Well, damn it, Hawkins, that's a nice way to welcome a fellow after two years' absence." Hawkins: "God, it's Ruffian Dick!") Even at the most dangerous moments, as at the holiest place in Mecca, his witty self-irony never deserts him: "I will not deny that, looking at the windowless walls, the officials at the door, and the crowd of excited fanatics below - and the place death, considering who I was - my feelings were of the trapped- rat description." It's as enjoyable as it is thoroughly reprehensible.

John Simpson's 'The Wars against Saddam' is published by Macmillan

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in