Why now is the time to visit Cuba

With the US recently announcing a plan to relax its trade restrictions with Cuba, there has been a great deal of speculation on how the country will change. Neil Ridley visits Havana to explore what the recent thawing in diplomatic relations will mean for its cigar and rum industry

"My mojito in the Bodeguita del Medio and my daiquiri in the Floridita" proclaimed Ernest Hemingway, in arguably what is one of the most well known of coincidental endorsements made by the famous writer about his Cuban watering holes of choice. Head to Venice and you’ll find similar plaudits from the great man in Harry’s Bar, but for some reason, they seem to resonate a little louder in Havana.

The bars in question are still iconic destinations for anyone travelling to Cuba in search of the spirit that once attracted Old Papa to settle down in Havana back in 1939. In fact, little has changed, save for the thousands of hand scrawled messages from visitors that adorn almost every wall in Bodeguita del Medio and a large bronze bust of Hemingway himself which props up the vintage crimson bar top in Floridita.

But one wonders whether this is potentially set to change, thanks to the recent relaxing of trade embargoes between the US government and Cuba that have been strictly observed for the last 50 years. Since January, US citizens are permitted to travel to Cuba under a dozen different reasons to return home with $100 worth of alcohol and tobacco. The thawing of relations will also permit US companies to help develop Cuba’s internet services, which are currently almost non-existent for visitors.

Although these are small steps in terms of diplomatic and indeed economic reform, it’s hard not to imagine that greater scope might be around the corner and that is where the potential challenge lies.

Havana is such a unique and intriguing destination, largely because of its relative isolation from US culture and commerce. Fortunately, you won’t find a Gap, Starbucks or KFC along the magnificently sprawling Malecón, the main seafront road that stretches for five miles along the capital's coastline but equally, you’ll struggle to find a cash machine that works, just when you need it.

But aside from non-existent wi-fi and late night holes-in-the-wall, Cuban rum and cigar sales are likely to thrive under the new regulations. The link between Cuba’s two biggest epicurean success stories has never been stronger and the Festival Habano, a celebration of both Cuban cigars and rum, held in late February and now in its 17 year, is more successful than ever, showcasing the very best new releases Cuba has to offer to a growing international audience.

This year, Havana Club, Cuba’s original rum brand owned in part by the Cuban government, has explored the relationship between flavour and aroma in a very different way, creating Union, an aged rum blended by Maestro Ronero Asbel Morales to be specifically paired with one of Cuba’s most highly sought after and expensive cigars, the Cohiba Siglo VI. This pairing will undoubtedly appeal to hedonists, but it also highlights just how great the opportunity is for premium Cuban rum, especially in the US which is dominated by very expensive single malt whiskies and cognacs.

Pay a visit to one of the main cigar rolling factories, such as Partagas and you are transported back in time to a snapshot that could quite easily be from the 1940s (frustratingly, one that you are not allowed to take photos of). Row upon row of rollers craft each individual cigar, while a foreman sits majestically at the front of the room, reading the official state newspaper, Granma, out over the public address system. Each cigar is then graded for colour by eye and boxed.

It’s a labour intensive process and one which begs the question: if US demand starts to outstrip supply, what does that mean for those in Europe, who also enjoy a fine Cuban cigar?

For anyone who has been idly talking about visiting Cuba, but has yet to get round to seriously doing anything about it, now is the time to stop procrastinating and book a flight. While the future may not look all that different so far, it’s hard deny that change is on the way, so take Hemingway’s fond words to heart, before the waiting list to get in becomes too long.

Aside from Hemingway’s favourite haunts, Havana has some outstanding destination bars and restaurants. Here’s my pick of the best to visit:

Fabrico de Arte (FAC)

This recently converted industrial building harbours a classy mix of art installations, a live music venue, open cinema and several cocktail bars. As such, it could easily be seen as the hipster heart of Havana. Order a Cuba Libre and join the hundreds of young Cubans who have made this their nighttime destination of choice.

www.fabricadeartecubano.com, Calle 26, La Habana, Cuba, +53 7 8382260

Paladar La Guarida

Set in a grand, but typically ramshackle turn-of-the-century property, Paladar La Guarida - one of the country's growing number of privately-run eateries - is arguably Havana’s best restaurant. Established in 1996, the walls are adorned by photos of the likes of Kevin Spacey and Jimmy Page, giving you an idea of the type of experience you’re in for. The menu comprises exquisite small plate dishes, from mouthwatering lobster tails to flash fried steak. Upstairs, you’ll find an open-air rooftop bar, with signature cocktails - its take on the classic El Presidente is outstanding.

www.laguarida.com, 418 Concordia, La Habana, Cuba, +53 7 8669047

Casa Santy Pescador

A fisherman’s shack set in a small harbour, which specialises in… you’ve guessed it - fresh shellfish. Santy is rustic with a capital R, but sit down with a plate of spicy clams and a bottle of Palma Cristal beer and you’ll see what all the fuss is about.

y Río. Jaimanitas, La Habana, 3c23 e/ 3raC 240 A, La Habana, Cuba, +53 5 2867039