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Travel questions

Is the best way to explore South America by rail?

Simon Calder answers your questions on train getaways, drip pricing and getting compensation

Friday 10 November 2023 19:30 GMT
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One of the best-known surviving lines in South America is in Peru, connecting the Andean city of Cusco with Machu Picchu
One of the best-known surviving lines in South America is in Peru, connecting the Andean city of Cusco with Machu Picchu (AFP/Getty)

Q What’s your view on South American rail adventures?

Robin B

A Bluntly, I wish there were more of them. During the 19th century, railway engineers worked wonders to create some astonishing lines across the continent. In the late 20th century I was lucky to travel on a few, including a steam train from the Paraguayan capital, Asuncion, to the city’s airport, and a high-altitude, overnight adventure through Bolivia. But now, as the international rail guru Mark Smith said: “Most countries have no coherent national rail network.” Long-distance buses and budget flights are the norm. Probably the best-known surviving line is in Peru: connecting the Andean city of Cusco – hub of the Inca Empire – with the ceremonial ruins of Machu Picchu (actually to Aguas Calientes, the scruffy town at the foot of the mountain). It is a spectacular journey with a formidable conclusion, though I have never actually been able to buy a ticket on it due to heavy bookings. The line from Cusco to Puno, the city on Lake Titicaca, is also worthwhile. But unlike trains that you find on other continents, these Peruvian trains are luxury conveyances aimed squarely at upmarket tourists.

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