Why Tampa, Florida is the blazing beach-and-city break you’ve never thought of

This sporty coastal city has new flights, plus a growing hotel scene and sunshine on tap. Lucy Thackray checks out its highlights

Holidaymakers on Clearwater Beach, Florida (Getty Images/iStockphoto)

You’ve probably distantly heard about Tampa, Florida ‒ but mainly in the context of huge sporting events, stadium gigs or even business conferences.

But Florida’s third city (from a holiday perspective, after established favourites Miami and Orlando) is also great for a bit of low-key winter sun. With a raft of new hotels opening their doors this year, and new flights launching in November 2022, it gets 30C in winter and has its own all-American, hedonistic charisma. So what’s all the fuss about? I crossed the pond to find out.

Stadium spectacles

One of the biggest reasons Americans fly in here is to watch supersized sports games in the flesh. You’ll see enormous banners and billboards around town, be they supporting the hockey team (Go Bolts!) or American football (Go Bucs!). The latter team ‒ the Tampa Bay Buccaneers ‒ have a nationally famous stadium worth a visit, complete with its very own pirate ship. Tiny sports jerseys are a great gift to bring home for kids, too.

The waterfront in Downtown Tampa (Adam Gerrard)

Cigar heritage

Ever heard of Ybor City? It was once one of the most prestigious places from which to source your cigars ‒ Winston Churchill was just one fan of its hand-rolled products. Now somewhat time-warped but still a fascinating study in immigrant culture and the American dream, it’s sleepy by day, with tall palms, saloon-vibes buildings and a huge mural telling its story. Get the full scoop from lifelong local Max Herman on his guided walking tour. There’s now only one working cigar factory, but don’t miss a stroll by town founder Vicente Martinez Ybor’s original warehouse ‒ now a Scientology church. Come back here after dark for a drink in a delightfully divey bar, such as The Dirty Shame.

Waterfront fun

Tampa’s waterfront has been smartly developed in recent years, with glossy apartment blocks trimmed with health food stores and coffee shops for an LA vibe. This is a prominent university town for Florida, so lively drinking dens and street food stands abound. Stroll along Sparkman’s Wharf to find character-packed food vendors such as Murph’s Barbecue, emblazoned with a neon sign boasting of “Smokin’ hot butts” (part of the fun here is the sheer, unsubtle levels of Americana). You can book a kayaking tour of the city waterways, or set off on a tipsy trip with beach-shack-styled floating bar Tiki Boats.

Gorgeous beaches

The best beaches near Tampa trim its close-by neighbours, the cities of Clearwater and St Petersburg. They’re on the same lobe of land, branching off to the west of Tampa, with a long wisp of sandbank facing the Gulf of Mexico. Clearwater Beach has the most divine white sand and comfy loungers, from the likes of Sandpearl Resort or North Beach Watersports. Meanwhile, Pass-a-Grille beach, towards the south of St Pete’s, has a Hawaii-lite vibe, especially if you drape your towel around the buskers and brunchers at Paradise Grille. If you wanted to sway your Florida break more towards beach fun than ball games, you could stay out this way and dip into Tampa for an urban fix.

Heights Public Market at the Armature Works development (Armature Works)

Hipster dining scenes

Two of the best pockets for drinking and dining are in Tampa proper. The first is Hyde Park Village, a purpose-built haven of buzzy bistros, al fresco bars and upmarket boutiques worth a wander before and after sunset. Try On Swann for healthy, veggie-packed bistro food (think fig tart with caramelised onion and gorgonzola) and Timpano for upmarket steak or pasta surrounded by locals letting off steam. Go earlier than dinnertime to peruse its nicely curated beauty, homewares and fashion boutiques.

The second foodie hit is the lively, redbrick Heights Public Market, a glossy yet industrial development beside the waterfront reminiscent of London’s Granary Square or New York’s Essex Market. Take drinks out onto its sprawling patio to hear live music, then visit the queue-trailed sushi counter Zukku, Cru Cellars wine bar or Hemingway’s for hearty Cuban fare and three types of sangria.

Travel essentials

Getting there

Virgin Atlantic flies to Tampa daily from London Heathrow, with economy fares from £440pp return.

The rooftop at Tampa Edition makes the most of this city’s steamy temperatures (Edition Hotels)

Staying there

The Tampa Edition is the hot new party pad in town. The September opening from Ian Schrager’s high-end group is all vanilla-cream hues, sculptural staircases and cloud-soft beds, topped by a buzzy rooftop pool and bar. Doubles from £442, room only.

For a more affordable stay with its own pool party fun and modern interiors, try the Current Hotel by Marriott’s Autograph Collection. Its swimming terrace juts out into the bay, with dazzling sea views from many rooms; you’ll find light, healthy bistro food and an artsy general store in the lobby. Doubles from £171, room only.