Lafayette city guide: Where to eat, drink, shop and stay in the heart of Cajun Country
Shilpa Ganatra gets under the skin of a US city that’s as hot as the Tabasco sauce made nearby, with a rich choice of food and drink, some impressive swamps to explore, and Mardi Gras celebrations that need to be experienced firsthand
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Cajun culture, an authentic Mardi Gras and fiery hot Tabasco might well draw you into a visit to Lafayette, but Southern hospitality ensures you won’t want to leave. More tightly-knit than New Orleans, Louisana’s most popular city, Lafayette holds all the same French-influenced charm, just with a low-key attitude. As dictated by their motto, laissez les bon temps rouler: let the good times roll.
What to do
The Mardi Gras annual highlight
Lafayette might be the fourth city of Louisiana, but it hosts the second-largest Mardi Gras celebrations. As well as the parades with elaborate floats that ride to a Grease-style funfair at Cajun Field, check out the Lundi Gras Boucherie, when a pig is carved and served at a day-long barn dance, and Courir de Mardi Gras, the traditional celebrations in smaller towns and villages. Find the full schedule at lafayettetravel.com.
Turn up the heat at the Tabasco factory
All the world’s Tabasco is created on Avery Island, about an hour’s drive away from Lafayette. A visit takes in a self-guided tour on how Tabasco is made from seed to sauce, and their 150-year history as an independent producer. The best bit is Café 1868, where their DIY bloody Mary bar lets you fire up the cocktail to your spice level, and top it with celery, pork crackling, gherkins, olives, lime or lemon in a souvenir cup, all for $10. Open daily from 9am to 4pm, entry $5.50.
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Head out on a swamp tour
A 90-minute swamp tour along the Atchafalaya Basin won’t only uncover scaly alligators creeping along the bayou’s perimeter – there’s much more natural life to explore in this curious habitat. Grab ear protectors and head out on the airboat to survey the swampscape of cypress trees draped with eerie moss, while the local guide regales stories of his favourite crocs, and the efforts made to protect the delicate ecosystem. Daily tours start from $49.
Rock the night away
As the home of the zydeco music genre, it’s only right that even a spot of bowling at Rock’n’Bowl in Lafayette is accompanied by live music and a dance – and you barely notice the rumbling of the lanes in the heat of the heaving dancefloor. Open Wednesday to Saturday from 4pm to 11pm, and Sundays from 4pm to 10pm.
Where to stay
Mouton Plantation Bed & Breakfast
To reside in a slice of Southern history, there’s no better place than the 12-roomed Moulton Plantation. A restored 1820s colonial mansion, expect to see original fireplaces, ceilings and bannisters alongside antique furniture (plus, thankfully, Wi-Fi and USB sockets). Most of the ground floor is preserved as common areas so all guests can enjoy the magnificent space, encouraged by the complimentary drinks and nibbles every day at 4.30pm.
The Juliet Hotel
One for visitors exploring on foot, The Juliet Hotel is the only hotel in the very centre of the action. While it’s a basic boutique, it’s easy to be charmed by some lovely touches like a lounge area with coffee and cake, and breakfast delivered to your room. Doubles from $120 (£96), room only. juliethotels.com
DoubleTree by Hilton
In a city that’s dominated by chain hotels, the Double Tree by Hilton is the pick of the bunch. It’s the only full-service hotel, it features microwaves and fridges in each room (useful for doggy bags when faced with US-sized portions), and affords sweeping views of the Vermillion River behind it.
Where to eat
For a traditional Louisiana start to the day, Dwyer’s Café is open from 6am. A no-frills family-run restaurant, the homely vibe continues in their all-American dishes. Though on Saturdays, there’s no better atmosphere than Buck and Johnny’s, a former gas station in nearby Breaux Bridge. The zydeco breakfast starts at 8.30am – and the dancefloor gets busy without the help of the all-you-can-drink bloody Marys or mimosas for $15.
It’s sacrilege to leave Lafayette without sampling a Po’boy. The Louisianan staple is a baguette with a crusty exterior but the bite of a soft bread inside. Try Pop’s Po’boys for lunch; their modern twist includes fillings of fried shrimp, Cajun roast pork and red bean falafel. They also sell the locally produced Swamp Pop drink; give the Satsuma Fizz flavour a whirl for a sweet accompaniment.
There’s plenty of international fare on offer for dinner – like the delicious Pamplona Tapas Bar with American interpretations of Spanish dishes, and the contemporary Spoonbill – but Louisiana is the home of Cajun cooking. Try it at the always-popular Bon Temps Grill, which specialises in classics like fried catfish and crawfish etouffee (a type of stew). If you’re feeling adventurous, start with the swamp legs: a mix of crispy duck drums in a mango sauce and twice-cooked alligator legs smothered in Thai sauce.
Where to drink
For a midday lift, Rêve are coffee specialists who roast their own beans on-site. Their coffee is served across the area but they also have a spacious industrial-chic café in the centre of Lafayette.
At night, there’s live music on Wednesdays to Saturdays at the rustic Blue Moon Saloon. A spot where denim dungarees wouldn’t look out of place, it’s a popular haunt for roots music and has a convivial atmosphere.
Or for something more on-trend, Social Southern Table & Bar is an airy, barn-like destination that specialises in bourbon and beer – though their cocktails list is pretty special, too.
For primary-coloured cocktails, it would be rude not to visit a drive-thru daiquiri shop like Cupid’s, as it’s unique to Louisiana.
Where to shop
Arts and crafts are abundant in Lafayette, and Sans Souci sources creations from around 200 artists to stock its shop on Vermillion Street. It’s perfect for gifts that will actually be used, ranging from spoons for left-handers to tasteful handmade jewellery.
Acadiana Mall is a shopaholic’s dream, with a Macy’s, JC Penney’s, Sephora and Forever 21 all under one roof. A more novel option is the flea market Jockey Lot, in which you can buy clothes, cowboy boots and curios.
Architectural highlight
Drive around the Sterling Grove Historic District to see streets of 19th-century plantation-style houses with French influence, most of which are kept in their original aesthetic.
What’s the best view?
Step into Ruffino’s to take a meal with mesmerising views of the swampy Vermillion River.
Insider tip?
Lafayette is crazy about their boudin: sausages stuffed with meat, rice and spices. The local favourite is either Billy’s or Don’s – you’ll guess that from the queues at weekends.
Nuts and bolts
What currency do I need?
US dollars.
What language do they speak?
English, though French is a dominant second language.
Should I tip?
15-20 per cent.
What’s the time difference?
GMT-5.
What’s the average flight time from the UK?
There are only indirect flights from the UK to Lafayette Airport; it’s about 12 hours in the air between two flights.
How should I get around?
Rental cars are the best way, otherwise Ubers are available and preferable to local taxis. Trains and buses are limited in their frequency and destinations.
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