Manama travel guide: Where to visit, stay and eat in Bahrain’s up-and-coming capital

This Middle Eastern city might not have the swagger of its neighbours just yet, but it’s still a brilliantly attractive place for a city break, says Jeff Mills

Manama’s modern cityscape is impressive, as is its history (Getty /iStock)

Bahrain has been at the crossroads of trade in the Gulf for centuries. First in gold and pearls, then when oil was discovered in 1932 and the economy suddenly escalated. Much of the landscape in the capital city, Manama, is now made up of dramatic buildings, such as the twin 50-storey towers of the Bahrain World Trade Center, the sleek glass-covered shopping mall known as The Avenues, which runs for almost a mile along the seafront Corniche, and the sky-piercing Bahrain Financial Harbour complex of high-rise housing banks and government offices.

But beyond the major business and economic elements, the city is also a magnet for tourists, welcoming visitors to a shopping paradise with excellent dining, arts and entertainment scenes. Many top chefs have given their names to restaurants in Manama but there’s plenty of street food to be found as well. Just explore the side streets around the souks and look for locals lining up for tables set up on the pavement.

If you fancy giving your credit card a beating, you will find virtually all the international designer stores doing brisk business in the state-of-the-art malls. Or be sure to visit the souks for reasonably priced fabrics, lamps, carpets and gold jewellery.

Here’s how to make the best of a visit to Manama.

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What to do

Al-Fateh Grand Mosque is open to visitors every day except for Fridays and public holidays (Getty/iStock)

Prepare to be amazed at the Al-Fateh Grand Mosque, which can accommodate up to 7,000 worshippers. This spectacular building, with its 79-foot outer dome, is adorned with imported Italian marble, glass from Austria, and Indian teak. It also houses the national library, from where you can take a guided tour of the various prayer rooms decorated in grand style by local craftsmen. Money was obviously no object.

Make time to visit Bahrain Fort, properly called Qal’at al-Bahrain, a Unesco world heritage site, fascinating for both its size and the many winding stairs and alleys inside the walls. You can see evidence of previous civilisations, including the Kassites, Greeks, Portuguese and Persians.

Put the Bahrain National Museum on your itinerary, an impressive modern building devoted to highlighting the country’s 6,000-year history, from ancient times, such as the Hall of Graves where you can see early Islamic artefacts and documents, via Bahrain’s past as a pearl-fishing and trading nation, to the country’s modern-day culture, as well as its flora and fauna.

Qal’at al-Bahrain helps tell the story of which civilisations lived in the region (Getty Images)

Take a trip to Beit Sheikh Isa Bin Ali Al Khalifa, the former house of a prominent sheikh, where you can get a glimpse of what life was like before oil and tourism came on the scene. Built around 1800 in the Gulf Islamic style, it is thought to be one of the finest traditional houses to be seen anywhere in the Gulf area. The building’s importance can be seen in the four separate sections of the house built around squares, one for the sheikh, one for his family, one for guests and another for servants. Look out for an early air-conditioning system made up of a wind tower and shutters, which was used to provide a breeze to cool the main reception room – it still works.

Where to stay

For somewhere different and very stylish, choose the 46-suite hotel The Merchant House, in a historic building close to what was the main gate, Bab-al-Bahrain, to the old city, right by the souk. The building may have been completely remodelled but there’s very little that’s minimalist about The Merchant House.

It is ultra-chic all the way, from the lobby, reception area and cafe, overlooked by a mezzanine housing a library with more than 1,000 books. Superb original art can be found throughout, including in the rooms, some of it by local artists but much of it internationally revered works by the likes of Chagall, Gauguin, Matisse and Toulouse-Lautrec, some on loan from private collections.

Alternatively, you could check in to one of Manama’s original luxury hotels, the Gulf Hotel, and you will be well placed for most central areas. This splendid building was once by the beach, but that was before years of land reclamation. It’s now way inland.

Where to eat

Cuisines from Europe, the Middle East, Asia and other parts of the world all mix happily in Manama’s exciting restaurant scene, which spans the price spectrum, from street food to fine dining. Middle Eastern foods such as hummus, kebabs, chicken, salads and flatbreads can be found all over, as can Indian food, often all on the same menu. Fish is popular, too, but you can find virtually any food which takes your fancy, from French and Italian to Japanese and Mexican.

Among the many restaurants of note in Manama are the rooftop Indigo in the Merchant House, great for brunch or a light lunch, and Cafe Lilou for classic French cuisine in a European-style cafe, where menu highlights include breakfast of zadig, made up of scrambled eggs with mushrooms and a cheese-truffle brioche, to lunch of dishes such as mistinguett, a dish of wrapped prawns with cheese risotto balls and fried halloumi.

For local favourites such as biryanis and delicious curries, try Haji Gahwa. Popular with residents (and tourists in the know), it’s in a small alley just off the old souk and provides an ideal place to absorb some of the surrounding vibes.

Where to drink

Unlike many other destinations in the Middle East, alcohol is legally for sale in Manama, but don’t be tempted to drink too obviously in public. That said, it is usually acceptable to sit at tables outside some cafes while you enjoy a beer with some food.

Manama has become well known recently for its lively nightlife, including bars, nightclubs and cocktail lounges, many of them in the area around the Seef district near the waterfront. Virtually all the hotels serve alcohol but it’s also worth checking out bars such as the Grand Yard House sports bar and the Downtown bar, and there’s even an Irish pub, McGettigan’s; all are close to the centre of town.

Where to shop

Many of the city’s modern shopping centres are located near Government Avenue in Block 301, and close to the Sheikh Khalifa Bin Salman highway near the waterfront area. The main malls include The Avenues, Moda Mall (in the Bahrain World Trade Center), Seef Mall and Al Aali Mall, all of which have a selection of mainly world-renowned fashion boutiques alongside top-end food outlets.

Elsewhere, try your hand at bargaining in one of the city’s many markets, such as the Bab Al-Bahrain souk, where the goods on offer include traditional textiles, pearls, jewellery and even spices, gold and perfumes, harking back to the days when the city was a major trading port.

FAQs

What currency do I need?

Bahraini dinars.

What language is spoken?

Arabic and English.

Should I tip?

Most restaurants add a 15 per cent service charge but many people also add 10 per cent for staff. Taxi drivers do not expect tips.

Time difference?

GMT+3.

How should I get around?

There are regular bus services, otherwise take a taxi, though they can be hard to find; best to book one through your hotel.

What’s the best view?

The view of the World Trade Center across the water from Manama city viewpoint.

Insider tips

Remember to dress modestly, particularly if you plan to visit a mosque, and remember the working week is Sunday to Thursday.

Getting there

A number of airlines, including British Airways and Gulf Air, fly from the UK to Manama. Bahrain International Airport is about 4.5 miles east of Manama in Muharraq, from where you can take a taxi or bus to the city.

There is a daily bus service over the King Fahd Causeway between the bus terminal in Manama and Khobar in Saudi Arabia, operated by the Saudi Bahrain Transport Company.

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