Sailors, warriors, punks and gladiators invade Milan

Italy's sexiest two design labels fought it out at the Milan collections. Backstage after yesterday's show, Stefano Gabbana declared: "Dolce & Gabbana is all about the mix of different things. This time it is the mix of ideas and references: astronauts, sailors, ancient Rome, Sid Vicious, the Sex Pistols.''

Indeed, the Sex Pistols (or rather Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, who created their look) were paid homage in gold chokers spelling SEX, skinny leather trousers that were buckled from heel to hip, and jackets that were strapped and pulled with studs. The punk band's DIY styling inspired a fur jacket held together with safety pins and the chains and zips that decorated Dolce & Gabbana's astronauts, who were wearing trousers, parkas and mini-skirts of gently ruched silver and lacquered muslin.

Space-age silver, the colour of 1960s futurism that looks set to become a major trend for next season, was there in a ruched silver lamé dress, and in the sparkling crystals that decorated tight chiffon tops and covered a fish-tail parka in swirling arabesques.

This mix – especially with proportions – is how Dolce & Gabbana makes such played-out references new and sexy. Sailor striped tops become tight vests while white cotton sailor trousers were slimmed down with studs. Tailored suits had tight drainpipe trousers with over-sized jackets, while mini-skirts were teamed with voluminous draped white chiffon.

But it was Dolce & Gabbana's references to ancient Rome that showed its signature tongue-in-cheek play with Italian style. Leather gladiator skirts and corsets were embellished with tough gold studs, as were the gladiator-style high heels, and silver chain-mail was crafted into mini-skirts and jackets with alternating bands of fur.

The warriors at Gucci, which showed on Saturday, were of the man-eating variety. (Think footballers' wives on a hen night.) Micro-minis and the shortest dresses, teamed with high silver sling-backs, were followed by kimonos – with nothing on underneath. It was a collection that will no doubt see slinky jersey tops and short clingy dresses improve Gucci's ailing figures. But there were few new ideas. In fact, Tom Ford's only creative moments seemed to be the dresses and mini-skirts made out of feathers. Start plucking now – the rest will be available at a high street store near you soon.