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The majority of food these days has more air miles than Naomi Campbell. Not only in the Peruvian-jet-setting-strawberry sense, either, though schlepping a bit of fruit from the other side of the planet is never a terribly good thing. But it travels conceptually, too. Quite often, the dishes seems to have been conceived and, indeed, put together somewhere in international waters. A burger in New York may have aspirations to peerless brilliance, but in all likelihood it won't be a great deal different from the aspirant burgers of Greater Manchester. Same goes for sushi, same goes for your kale salads, same goes for your ceviche. Quite a lot of food now has no sense of place whatsoever.
Of course, culinary globalisation can be a good thing. It brings more choice, more flavours, more styles and techniques of cooking to our lives – and it would be churlish to deny that. It is a pleasure to stare down into a Hunanese hotpot and prod the delights within. But it can also be a strangulating pain, something that stymies creativity and creates a uniform, cookie-cutter food culture that has all the verve of a Farrow & Ball shop.
So, when you come across a restaurant serving food that can only come from that place, that looks, smells and tastes of that area, it is time to put down your burger and take notice. I did just that, metaphorically speaking, when I visited Gravetye Manor.
50 best foods for healthy livingShow all 50 1 /5050 best foods for healthy living 50 best foods for healthy living Digestion Live yoghurt - Many with digestive issues avoid dairy, but live yoghurt may be worth a shot, as it is full of gut-friendly bacteria. Because the lactose in live yoghurt is effectively broken down, it is gentler on the system than milk.
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50 best foods for healthy living Digestion Chia seeds - Just two tablespoons of chia seeds provide a third of your recommended daily intake of fibre.
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50 best foods for healthy living Digestion Sauerkraut - Fermented foods like sauerkraut (fermented cabbage) is packed with probiotics, aiding digestion.
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50 best foods for healthy living Digestion Lentils - High in insoluble fibre, lentils are great for digestion, as well as being regarded as beneficial in alleviating irritable bowel syndrome and diverticulosis.
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50 best foods for healthy living Digestion Buckwheat - Despite the name, buckwheat is completely wheat and gluten free and a great, high fibre alternative to anyone with a wheat intolerance.
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50 best foods for healthy living Immune system Oranges - Citrus fruits such as oranges are high in Vitamin C, which helps to prevent colds and infection.
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50 best foods for healthy living Immune system Mushrooms - Shiitake mushrooms have been shown in studies to boost the production of white blood cells, thus improving the body’s ability to fight infection.
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50 best foods for healthy living Immune system Clams - Contain zinc and selenium, which helps to slow the body’s immune response and control inflammation.
50 best foods for healthy living Immune system Garlic - Packed with antioxidants, garlic was used to fight gangrene in World War I, but more practically can help to keep colds at bay. It is also quite anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal, and used to treat everything from psoriasis to athlete’s foot.
50 best foods for healthy living Immune system Broccoli - One cup of broccoli provides you with almost 100% of your RDA of vitamin C, which is thought to stave off colds and other illnesses. It is also rich in vitamin A, K, folate and potassium. Cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli contain a sulphurous compound that studies show can lower the risk of cancer.
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50 best foods for healthy living Skin, hair and nails Avocado - The good fats in avocado hydrate the skin, while omega 9 can help reduce redness. Avocado is also rich in vitamin E, which helps guard against sun damage and vitamin C, which helps produce elastin and collagen for skin firmness.
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50 best foods for healthy living Skin, hair and nails Sunflower seeds - a handful contains more than a third of your daily vitamin E needs.
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50 best foods for healthy living Skin, hair and nails Pumpkin - One of the richest sourcs of Vitamin A, which is essential for the formation of connective tissue, i.e. skin.
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50 best foods for healthy living Skin, hair and nails Olive oil - The monounsaturated fatty acids in olive oil plump the skin for a more youthful look, plus antioxidant polyphenols may curb ageing free-radicals.
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50 best foods for healthy living Skin, hair and nails Green tea - Polyphenols in green tea could help to offset sun damage.
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50 best foods for healthy living Weight loss Cinnamon - This spice is a great additive for breakfasts and bakes if you are trying to cut sugar and sweeteners, and it is also thought to help balance blood sugar.
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50 best foods for healthy living Weight loss Apples - Apples are high in pectin, a soluble fibre that helps to keep you feeling fuller for longer.
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50 best foods for healthy living Weight loss Eggs - One of the best sources of protein, eggs help to keep you energised and prevent unhealthy snacking, while providing a host of vitamins and minerals for general good health.
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50 best foods for healthy living Weight loss Tuna- High in protein, low in saturated fat and rich in omega 3, tuna is a fantastic option for maintained weight loss. The omega 3 in oily fish improves the body’s response to insulin, lowering metabolism and helping to prevent the dreaded sugar spikes.
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50 best foods for healthy living Weight loss Oats - High in fibre for slow-release energy, oats also are thought to lower cholesterol.
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50 best foods for healthy living Heart health Beetroot - This is a good source of iron and folic acid. It is also rich in nitrates, which help to reduce blood pressure.
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50 best foods for healthy living Heart health Garlic - High in manganese, selenium and antioxidants, garlic is thought to help lower blood pressure and reduce cholesterol.
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50 best foods for healthy living Heart health Asparagus - Rich in the amino acid asparagine, which serves as a natural diuretic and helps rid the body of excess salts. This is beneficial for people have high blood pressure or other heart-related diseases.
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50 best foods for healthy living Heart health Salmon - Studies have found that eating oily fish such as salmon can lower blood pressure and reduce cholesterol. Rich in Omega-3 fatty acids,
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50 best foods for healthy living Heart health Pomegranate - Rich in vitamins A, C and E, and high in fibre, pomegranates are thought to help protect against heart disease. A 2004 study showed evidence that daily consumption helped to alleviate narrowed arteries and reduce cholesterol.
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50 best foods for healthy living Brain health Mackerel - Oily fish including mackerel is rich in Omega 3, which studies have suggested is linked to a reduced risk of dementia, schizophrenia and depression, as well as enhanced memory.
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50 best foods for healthy living Brain health Hazelnuts - HIgh in Vitamin E, which studies say can help to prevent cognitive decline in older people.
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50 best foods for healthy living Brain health Blueberries - low in calories and high in antioxidants, blueberries are regarded as a nutritional powerhouse. Some studies have found a link between blueberry consumption and improved spatial learning and memory.
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50 best foods for healthy living Brain health Cacao - Contains phenylethylamine, which acts as a mild mood enhancer, and a 2009 study shows signs that it can help to reduce stress. However, adding sugar and milk to cacao to make your favourite chocolatey treat offsets any health benefits - try to keep it as close to its natural state as possible.
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50 best foods for healthy living Brain health Pumpkin seeds - Just a handful of pumpkin seeds a day provide your total RDA of zinc, which is important for enhancing your memory.
50 best foods for healthy living Energy Sweet potatoes - Starchy veg like sweet potatoes are a great source of low-GI carbohydrates for slow-burn, long-lasting energy. Sweet potatoes are also rich in soluble fibre and vitamins A, C and B6.
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50 best foods for healthy living Energy Beef - Low energy levels are often a sign of iron deficiency or anaemia. Lean cuts of beef are a good source of iron, as well as being a protein powerhouse to aid muscle development and stamina.
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50 best foods for healthy living Energy Brown Rice - Complex carbohydrates like brown rice break down into energy-boosting sugars more slowly than white rice, meaning more energy for longer, and more balanced blood sugar levels - i.e. no nasty sugar crash within hours of eating.
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50 best foods for healthy living Energy Bananas - A great source of energy that keep sugar levels balanced, plus the sweet taste will help to satisfy cravings.
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50 best foods for healthy living Energy Quinoa - This supergrain contains more protein than rice or any other grain, ideal for building muscle, along with being a nutrient-rich source of carbohydrates.
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50 best foods for healthy living Bone health Sardines - Sunshine is the best source of bone-building Vitamin D, but if a British summer doesn’t allow for that, sardines are a surprising source, as well as being rich in calcium.
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50 best foods for healthy living Bone health Brussel sprouts - Just three-quarters of a cup of this divisive winter vegetable provides your RDA of vitamin K, which is essential in helping the absorption of calcium for healthy bones.
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50 best foods for healthy living Bone health Chickpeas - High in protein and fibre, chickpeas are also packed with iron, phosphate, calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc and vitamin K, which contribute to building and maintaining strong bones.
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50 best foods for healthy living Bone health Spinach - If dairy isn’t your thing, spinach could be your saviour - a cup of cooked spinach contains a quarter of your calcium needs.
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50 best foods for healthy living Bone health Almonds - Rich in potassium, which prevents the excretion of calcium in urine, as well as being rich in protein and other nutrients for maintaining bone health.
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50 best foods for healthy living Men’s Health Prawns - Rich in zinc, which is essential for sperm quality and fertility.
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50 best foods for healthy living Men’s Health Tomatoes - high in lycopene, an antioxidant which, according to the World Cancer Research Fund, can help reduce the risk of prostate cancer. Strangely, cooked and tinned tomatoes are recommended, as the lycopene is more readily absorbed.
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50 best foods for healthy living Men’s Health Brazil nuts - High in selenium, which boosts the immune system and strengthens the thyroid gland.
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50 best foods for healthy living Men’s Health Cauliflower - Rich in vitamin C, potassium and boron, which is said to aid in increasing testosterone levels and muscle-building.
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50 best foods for healthy living Men’s Health Turkey - With obesity an escalating problem for men, turkey is a great swap for your morning bacon. HIgh in lean protein, it is full of B vitamins, which can aid in lowering cholesterol.
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50 best foods for healthy living Women’s Health Walnuts - These nuts contain antioxidants and phytosterols that may help reduce the risk of breast cancer.
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50 best foods for healthy living Women’s Health Green beans - Low in fat, bean are a great source of protein and fibre and can also help to guard against breast cancer and heart disease. Isoflavones in beans, chickpeas and lentils help with the regulation of hormones, easing PMS and menopause symptoms.
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50 best foods for healthy living Women’s Health Flax - One of the oldest sources of fibre in the world, flaxseed can ease digestion as well as providing omega 3 fatty acids. It is also thought to be of help with menopause, but some experts say it should be avoided if pregnant.
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50 best foods for healthy living Women’s Health Cranberries - Rich in anthocyans, red berries such as cranberries help to play a role in cell repair and are thus thought to reduce cancer risk. Also high in vitamin C and folic acid, essential for women of childbearing age, and cranberry juice is a fantastic way to get rid of cystitis.
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50 best foods for healthy living Women’s Health Tofu - A great source of phytoestrogens, which can help with the symptoms of menopause and polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS).
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Before I set off, I wasn't expecting a great deal. I had read that it was a 17-room, 16th-century hotel in East Grinstead in West Sussex, that it had a beautiful garden by green-fingered Victorian William Robinson, and I had clocked that it had picked up a Michelin star in 2008. And I thought, "Very nice, sounds boring".
I arrived there on Sunday, tired, fed up and 30 minutes late, after an unfortunate excursion on a rail replacement bus. The ire soon drained through the soles of the wellies I'd borrowed to go round the gardens in, though. The grounds, with their nine gardeners, are so big, so beautiful, so in-bloom that they envelope you in charm. But they also have a much more practical purpose.
The first thing you notice when you look at the seven-course tasting menu is the opening course: a Gravetye Manor salad – which, as the menu explains, is a confit hen's yolk with crisp brassicas and marinated root veg. So far, so unexceptional. Yet every single component of that dish comes from that garden – and it goes on. The carrots with the Orkney scallops, the potatoes, the beets, the fennel, the apples, the rhubarb, which all come later in a beautiful fevered dream of dishes, are all from the garden. Ninety five per cent of the vegetables and fruit served on these plates is from the grounds. Ninety five per cent! And you see it on the plate, in the freshness of the colours, in the edible flowers from the gardens scattered over the plate of foie gras that people are ordering around me. And you see it in the rich, overflowing flavour, the zing of freshness.
The place deserves more credit, and more attention. It is a bona fide example of that usually most faux of things: field-to-fork food. This is a restaurant that knows its place and doesn't need Google Maps to find it.
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