Changing faces: Beauty trends from the catwalk
Bronzed skin, sultry eyes and a tangerine pout. Revamp your look for summer with beauty trends straight from the catwalk, says Harriet Walker
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Summer wouldn’t feel right without lashings of bronze and gold, and models at Sophia Kokosalaki’s show channelled a bit of the designer’s own inner Greek goddess, with burnished skin accented with metallic gold eyes.
“Summer is all about fresh, glowing skin,” says Alberto Esteban, senior make-up artist at Bobbi Brown, “so add layers of shimmer and colour to create a more dramatic look, while still keeping the basics light and summery.” Stay away from heavy foundation and bronzer, and instead, try a light, tinted moisturiser for colour, with a sweep of shimmering powder for iridescence. Line eyes with as much gold as you dare and frame them with shaded brows, making sure the end effect is delicate, rather than disco.
Orange Lips
If you’re after eye-catching, modern make-up that doesn’t look too trowelled-on, try this season’s bold orange lip, as seen at Prada. Lips are a good focal point in summer, as they tend to bear less of the brunt in the sweating, rubbing or SPF stakes. Keep skin matte and flawless with a reliable foundation and don’t bother with cheek colour – otherwise you’ll look too doll-like.
“Go as bright as you dare when it comes to orange lips,” says make-up artist Alex Box. “For a contemporary look, dust loose powder on top to mattify the lips.” Finish with some concentrated black mascara to define the eyes a little, and stay skin-shine-free with pressed powder. Try also the loose bunches that models wore at the show: perfect for a day at the beach or at the office.
Smokey Eyes
A smokey eye never goes out of fashion and summer’s version is refined and elegant, rather than gothic. Choose black or grey eyeshadow that has a little shimmer to it and apply in a not-too-precise swoop on the upper lid, before defining the area around the eye with black liner, keeping it close to the lashline.
Finish with a volumising mascara in deepest black, and try onewhich will add a bit of volume – YSL’s cult Faux Cils makes eyelashes telescopic without leaving them crunchy or spidery. Models at Lanvin accessorised smokey lids with bulbous topknots (aim for the ‘bread roll’ effect), and hair was swept off the face to keep this style modern.
The Plait
Seen a few seasons ago at Giles, the wispy fishtail plait made a reappearance on the red carpet this season, and chunky braids were also seen at Alexander Wang as the perfect feminine foil to summer’s utilitarian aesthetic. Create your own with these tips from Percy & Reed’s Adam Reed: “Apply Klorane dry shampoo to the roots, split hair into two sections down the middle of the head at the back. Braid both sections from the side of the head to the nape, then gather the sections plait in a simple fishtail.” And if this sounds like too much work, you could always try Daniel Hersheson’s new clip-on plait for an instant style refresher.
Pale Pastels
Summer’s sorbet shades are the perfect solution for those allergic to sunlight. Although pastels work well on tanned skin too, they look clean and fresh against pale complexions, so experiment with some of the ice-cream parlour pinks, blues and greens on offer. “Pastels are popular for summer because they are outdoorsy, wearable, and a great way to have fun with make-up,” says Alberto Esteban.
Lilac was popular at the shows and can make skin look lusciously creamy – but cover any blemishes with a lightweight foundation first. Try it on lids, as well as in small amounts on the very top of the cheekbones, combined with highlighter to boost your natural radiance. Finish with slightly stained lips but stay away from fullon lip colour: this trend is soft and romantic. Mascara shouldn’t be too heavy either, so try one that defines without being too showy, and keep hair natural, whether pulled back or falling in soft waves around the face.
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