How the classic white shirt got reworked for Autumn/Winter

This season, designers updated the nine-to-five staple

Christopher Kane took the white shirt out of the office and placed it in the factory

One of those items that transcends seasons, times of day and even gender, the classic white shirt is the backbone of pretty much everyone’s wardrobe. But, with a reputation for corporate, buttoned-up and conformist style, it can often be underestimated.

While it might be familiar, simple and dependable, the traditional shirt is anything but basic and that’s exactly why it’s enjoying a moment in the spotlight for autumn/winter.

This season, designers recognised the humble garment’s sartorial potential by commandeering it in a myriad of ways. From off-balance proportions to asymmetric cuts and embellished trims, the straight-laced button up has been replaced with entirely new, and more experimental incarnations.

Burberry took inspiration from artist Henry Moore

Peeling back the rigid rules of the nine-to-five shirt, Burberry reconfigured the staple piece by taking inspiration from Yorkshire artist and sculptor, Henry Moore.

A prime example saw crisp white shirts with Victoriana collars left untucked while the cuffs were left to flap loosely around the model’s knuckles.

Elsewhere for designer Carolina Herrera, the classic shirt has become something of a calling card and this season was no exception. Here, she sent a flurry of crisp white versions down the runway, some with pilgrim collars and velvet bows, others with pearl-studded trims, wrapped waists and capelet panels.

Reviving the style still, Christopher Kane used his to express a tougher femininity by looking to the uniforms of female factory workers. For the shirt, this meant a no-frills approach and mannish shapes half-tucked into tailored trousers.

White Ruched Bell Sleeve Shirt, £19.99, New Look

Flounce-hemmed Cotton Shirt, £34.99, H&M

When it comes to autumn, the button-down feels even more relevant than ever before – hello layering – and quickly presents itself as one of the most versatile pieces in your wardrobe.

You can tuck it in, leave it loose, or take your cue from the runway and do half and half. But whichever way you wear yours, be it oversized or reworked with fancy trappings, this season, and arguably always, the white shirt is a game changer.

Puff Sleeve Blouse by Boutique, £70, Topshop

Poplin Shirt, £19.99, Zara

Comme des Garcons, Cotton-Sateen Shirt, £200, Net-a-Porter

Blouse with Ruffled Hem, £25.99, Zara