Is the Hoover chefvolution combination microwave good enough to ditch your oven?

Buy now £149.99, Hooverdirect.co.uk

Power: 900w

Dimensions: 48.3cm x 40.5cm x 29.2cm

Capacity: 25l

Convection oven/grill: Yes/yes

Design

It’s not easy to make a microwave look good but this one impressed us straight from the box. Its glossy black exterior, lack of visible handle and touch screen panel means it doesn’t take over the kitchen and it isn’t too huge for a combi either. It sat easily on our worktop without dominating the space yet it still fits a decent-sized 31cm plate inside. We were especially impressed by the nifty suction feet that ensured the microwave didn’t budge an inch once in place. There’s also a child lock function which would be handy if it was within touching distance of little hands, plus a setting to turn off all key tones and beeping if you prefer a quieter kitchen.

Unfortunately, its sleek good looks mean it does show fingerprints easily though it looked as good as new after a quick buff with a microfibre cloth. The flat touch-screen panel is much easier to keep clean than chunky dials and buttons too as it’s simple to wipe straight across the surface. It’s no problem to clean inside with a damp cloth either and the glass turntable can be removed completely to be washed in a sink or in the dishwasher.

The instruction manual is less impressive and we found it a little confusing. The sub-menus for automatic cooking are curiously specific and a little obscure (farro or microwaved natural yoghurt anyone?) We would have liked some recipes included instead to make the manual more practical and we found it easier to figure out how it worked ourselves rather than puzzling over the instructions.

Performance

This microwave is packed with features normally seen on much more expensive models. Most importantly, it has the latest inverter technology which controls the heat and delivers continuous microwave emissions for precision cooking even at lower temperatures. This preserves the flavour and texture of food to avoid the age-old problem of burnt edges and cold spots in the centre and means the microwave can handle more delicate cooking including steaming and poaching. Inverter technology also preserves the nutritional qualities of food and means it operates almost silently, which is disconcerting at first if you’re used to a normal microwave but a delight in an open-plan kitchen.

It has a good 25l capacity which should be more than enough for all but the biggest households and the 900 watts of power makes standard microwave cooking super-speedy. All the ready meals we tested were heated perfectly with no cold spots or overcooked edges, and were piping hot all the way through. Vegetables were expertly cooked too and didn’t feel or taste at all over-done.

There are a whopping 32 automatic programmes for one-touch cooking with an emphasis on healthy options including swordfish, porridge, soaked legumes, quinoa and baked sweet potatoes. It would have been nice to have a few less virtuous options such as melted chocolate or popcorn though.

The defrost setting is particularly good. It thawed out our individual slices of bread without making them soggy and defrosted mince without browning any sections. The oven works very well too. Our lasagne had a lovely browned top and was cooked all the way through while a pair of jacket potatoes were soft but with a decently crisped skin that would be impossible to replicate in a normal microwave. We were sceptical we could bake cupcakes in any microwave but they rose well and tasted just as good as they would if cooked in the oven, though they did take a little longer.

Read more: 12 best saucepan sets to inspire your inner chef

The grill was the only real disappointment as it was a lot slower than one on a traditional oven. Our bacon took far longer to cook than normal and even toast took over ten minutes. Results were even when finished but we found it hard to judge grilling times as it’s not possible to see through the door during cooking.

The verdict: Hoover chefvolution HMCI25TB-UK combination microwave

If you only plan on zapping the occasional ready meal, there’s probably no need to spend this much cash on a microwave. However, if you rely on one for defrosting, one-touch cooking and reheating, this feature-packed model is a worthwhile investment that won’t be an eyesore. It has an impressive capacity and the inverter technology makes a noticeable difference to flavour and cooking results. While we’re not quite prepared to ditch our full-size oven just yet, this microwave is ideal when you need a little extra cooking space and would be a handy addition to any busy kitchen.