Woody's wacky-baccy jacket set to be a big draw at the Oscars

Tamsin Blanchard on why Harrelson (right) will be stepping up in a suit made from cannabis fibre. Now that is high fashion

There is only so much a man can do with a black tuxedo, but tomorrow night Woody Harrelson will give new meaning to the term "smoking jacket" when he arrives at the Oscars ceremony. The Cheers star, nominated as best actor for his part in The People versus Larry Flynt, will divert the camera lenses from the designer frocks of the women celebrities when he arrives dressed in a long-line suit made of hemp by Giorgio Armani.

Hemp is something the vegan actor, animal rights protester and environmentalist is better known for growing rather than wearing: last year he was given a court summons for planting the seeds.

But the muesli-eating, tree-loving actor was delighted by the idea that Armani has developed a line of clothing made out of eco-friendly fibre from the marijuana plant. He will wear his black-dyed hemp tux alongside partner Laura Louie in a black hemp tank dress, and Oscar-nominated Larry Flynt director, Milos Forman, dressed also in hemp.

The Oscars ceremony has become one of the biggest events in the fashion calendar. The Oscars is a publicity fest and any designer worth his or her evening wear wants to be in on the big night. Over the past few weeks, every nominee will have been inundated with offers from the biggest names in fashion, all desperate to have star endorsement for their clothes. Designers will beg, offer stars and their agents a lifetime's supply of clothes, or send the keys to a flash car, to be picked up after a particular starlet has worn a particular dress.

In America, the publicity machine is further stoked by reports on TV gossip slots for weeks before the Oscars as to who will be wearing what. If Harrelson tries to smoke his jacket half way through the ceremony, so much the better.

Monday will be a hectic day over in Los Angeles. When the sun comes up over Santa Monica Boulevard, manicurists, pedicurists, hair colourists and leg waxers will be preparing for the busiest day of their year. When the spotlight falls on the stars later that evening, their work will help provide an outstanding opportunity for a designers' showcase, a catwalk unlike any other.

Among those who will benefit from the Oscar display are several British designers. Although only one of the three British actresses nominated, Emily Watson, star of Breaking the Waves, is expected to wear a home-grown designer outfit, other stars have flocked to British fash- ion houses.

Ms Watson is a woman of firm ideas about what she should wear, despite being inundated with offers over the past few weeks. When Bulgari offered her the equivalent of the royal jewels to wear for the night, she declined the offer, insisting such over-the-top glitz is not her style. The dress she has chosen is by Amanda Wakeley, a strappy bias-cut, steel-coloured, chiffon slinky number with white embroidery.

Kristin Scott Thomas, tipped by many to win best actress for her part in The English Patient as Katherine Clifton, turned up at John Galliano's show in Paris two weeks ago, but it seems she has chosen to shop elsewhere, and will not be flying the flag for Britain. The label on her dress will be a closely guarded secret until tomorrow night. All her press agent would say on Friday night was "it's French and it's definitely not Dior".

Scott Thomas's fellow English Patient star, Ralph Fiennes, will be accompanied to the ceremony by his partner Francesca Annis, who will be wearing a long, bias-cut, sheath dress by north London-based duo Pearce Fionda. And Armani will also be dressing Brenda Blethyn, nominated as best actress for Mike Leigh's Secrets and Lies. Her yellow sleeveless evening gown will be made of good old-fashioned silk.

The other British star of the night looks set to be London-based frock designer Isabell Kristensen. A month ago, she sent a selection of her evening wear to Fred Hayman's LA shop. Her dresses have been put on reserve for actresses including Sandra Bullock, Courtney Love, Andie MacDowell and Uma Thurman. Kristensen will be watching the world's glitziest fashion show closely. A picture of Uma Thurman in one of her dresses is worth more publicity than advertising can buy.

Oscar-dressing is not all fantasy, however. Lesser mortals, inspired by Woody Harrelson, will only have to wait until next autumn to buy their Armani hemp jeans.

David Thomson, Review