One-fingered Japanese climber dies on eighth attempt to reach Everest summit

Sherpas find body of Nobukazu Kuriki in tent at 7,400m

Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki poses with a Nepalese flag in 2015 (AP)

A celebrated Japanese climber with just one finger has died on his eighth attempt to climb Mount Everest.

Nobukazu Kuriki was found dead in a tent at 7,400 metres on the 8,850-metre mountain, a Nepal mountaineering official said on Monday.

“Sherpas found his body inside the tent,” Gyanendra Shrestha said from base camp. Details of the incident were not immediately available due to poor communication with the higher camp, he added.

The 36-year-old had previously made seven unsuccessful attempts to scale the world's highest peak.

In 2012, Kuriki spent two days in a snow hole a few hundred metres from the summit in temperatures below -20C. Severe frostbite meant nine of his fingertips were amputated.

It came after 63-year-old Macedonian, Gjeorgi Petkov, died at the weekend also climbing Everest, hiking officials said.

Volunteers and friends carry the body of Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki (Getty Images)

Both bodies were retrieved from the mountain on Monday and were flown by helicopters to Kathmandu, where they were expected to have autopsies.

It was still unclear how they died, but the Macedonian is believed to have suffered a heart attack, Mr Shrestha said.

Nepal has allowed more than 340 foreign climbers and their Sherpa guides to ascend the peak during the current season, which started in March and continues through May.

Many succeeded in the past week due to good weather. Teams have to end their attempts by the end of May as weather conditions deteriorate.

Additional reporting by agencies.